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Happy birthday AUD: how our Australian dollar was floated, 40 years ago this week

<p><em><a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/selwyn-cornish-1297285">Selwyn Cornish</a>, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/australian-national-university-877">Australian National University</a> and <a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/john-hawkins-746285">John Hawkins</a>, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/university-of-canberra-865"><em>University of Canberra</em></a></em></p> <p>These days, we take for granted that the value of the Australian dollar fluctuates against other currencies, changing thousands of times a day and at times jumping or falling quite a lot in the space of a week.</p> <p>But for most of Australia’s history, the value of the Australian dollar – and the earlier Australian pound – was “<a href="https://www.rba.gov.au/education/resources/explainers/exchange-rates-and-their-measurement.html#:%7E:text=exchange%20rate%20volatility.-,Pegged,or%20a%20basket%20of%20currencies.">pegged</a>” to either gold, pound sterling, the US dollar or to a value of a basket of currencies.</p> <p>The momentous decision to <a href="https://www.afr.com/policy/economy/the-long-road-that-led-to-the-floating-of-the-australian-dollar-20141121-11ra30">float</a> the dollar was taken on Friday December 9 1983 by the Hawke Labor Government, which was elected nine months earlier.</p> <p>As they approached the cabinet room at what is now Old Parliament House, Treasurer Paul Keating asked Reserve Bank Governor Bob Johnston to write him a letter to say the bank recommended floating.</p> <p>The letter, dated December 9, referred to the bank’s concern about the "volume of foreign exchange purchases and its belief that if these flows are to be brought under control we shall need to face up without delay either to less Reserve Bank participation in the exchange market or capital controls."</p> <p>By “less Reserve Bank participation”, Johnston meant a managed float; direct controls were to be considered “as a last resort”.</p> <p>The bank had long maintained a “<a href="https://www.afr.com/policy/economy/the-long-road-that-led-to-the-floating-of-the-australian-dollar-20141121-11ra30">war book</a>”, bearing the intriguing label “Secret Matter”, outlining the procedures to be followed in the event of a decision to float.</p> <p>An updated version was handed to the treasurer the day before the decision.</p> <p>The <a href="https://www.brookings.edu/articles/floating-exchange-rates-after-ten-years/">US</a> and the <a href="http://news.bbc.co.uk/onthisday/hi/dates/stories/june/23/newsid_2518000/2518927.stm">UK</a> floated their currencies in the early 1970s. Since the early 1980s the value of the dollar had been set via a “<a href="https://www.rba.gov.au/publications/bulletin/2018/dec/understanding-exchange-rates-and-why-they-are-important.html">crawling peg</a>” – meaning its value was pegged to other currencies each week, and later each day, by a committee of officials who announced the values at <a href="https://www.smh.com.au/entertainment/inside-the-floating-of-the-a-20131211-2z698.html">9.30 each morning</a>.</p> <p>If too much or too little money came into the country as a result of the rate the authorities had set, they adjusted it the next day, sometimes losing money to speculators who had bet they wouldn’t be able to hold the rate they had set.</p> <p>Keating had Johnston accompany him to the December 9 press conference instead of Treasury Secretary John Stone, who had argued against the float in the cabinet room, putting the case for direct controls on capital inflows instead.</p> <p>Johnston’s presence was meant to make clear that at least the central bank supported floating the dollar.</p> <h2>Speculators now speculate against themselves</h2> <p>Keating told the press conference the float meant the speculators would be “<a href="https://www.smh.com.au/business/banking-and-finance/from-the-archives-1983-the-australian-dollar-floats-free-20191206-p53hjq.html">speculating against themselves</a>”, rather than against the authorities.</p> <p>One banker quoted that night confessed to being “<a href="https://www.smh.com.au/business/banking-and-finance/from-the-archives-1983-the-australian-dollar-floats-free-20191206-p53hjq.html">absolutely staggered</a>”. “I’m not sure they know what they have done,” the banker said.</p> <p>The following Monday on ABC’s AM program, presenter <a href="https://www.abc.net.au/news/2003-12-08/20-years-since-dollar-floated/102568">Red Harrison</a> heralded “a brave new world for the Australian dollar”. He said, "from today the dollar must take its chance, subject to the supply and demand of the international marketplace, and there are suggestions that foreign exchange dealers expect a nervous start to trading when the first quotes are posted this morning."</p> <p>At the time, the Australian dollar was worth 90 US cents. At first it <a href="https://www.rba.gov.au/speeches/2013/sp-gov-211113.html">rose</a>, before settling back.</p> <p>Since then, the Australian dollar has fluctuated from a low of <a href="https://www.nma.gov.au/defining-moments/resources/australian-dollar-floated">47.75</a> US cents in April 2001 to a high of US$1.10 in July 2011.</p> <hr /> <p><iframe id="6ExL8" class="tc-infographic-datawrapper" style="border: none;" src="https://datawrapper.dwcdn.net/6ExL8/3/" width="100%" height="400px" frameborder="0"></iframe></p> <hr /> <h2>The long road to the float</h2> <p>The idea first took hold in Australia when Commonwealth Bank Governor <a href="https://www.rba.gov.au/publications/bulletin/2022/dec/hc-coombs-governor-of-australias-central-bank-1949-1968.html">“Nugget” Coombs</a> visited Canada in 1953, at a time when it was one of the few countries with a floating exchange rate.</p> <p>On his return, Coombs wrote the bank should consider Canada’s experience.</p> <p>A strong advocate from the mid-1960s was the bank’s economist <a href="https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/j.1475-4932.1986.tb00915.x">Austin Holmes</a>. Among those he mentored at what by then was called the Reserve Bank were Bob Johnston, Don Sanders and John Phillips.</p> <p>All three were in the cabinet room when the decision was taken.</p> <h2>Backed by Cairns, opposed by Abbott</h2> <p>An unlikely advocate in the 1970s was the left-wing Labor treasurer <a href="https://treasury.gov.au/sites/default/files/2019-03/05Hawkins.pdf">Jim Cairns</a>.</p> <p>But asked in 1979 whether he was in favour of a float, the then Reserve Bank governor <a href="https://www.rba.gov.au/about-rba/history/governors/sir-harold-murray-knight.html">Harry Knight</a> responded by quoting Saint Augustine, saying “God make me pure, but not yet”. An oil shock was making markets turbulent at the time.</p> <p>In 1981, the Campbell inquiry into the Australian financial system delivered a landmark report to Treasurer John Howard, <a href="https://treasury.gov.au/publication/p1981-afs">recommending</a> a float. The idea was backed by neither the Treasury nor Prime Minister Malcolm Fraser.</p> <p>Two years later, Howard watched from opposition as Labor did what he could not.</p> <p>The Liberal Party generally backed Labor’s move, with one notable exception – the later prime minister, <a href="https://www.smh.com.au/national/tony-abbott-wrote-20-years-ago-floating-dollar-didnt-make-sense-20131206-2ywpm.html">Tony Abbott</a>, who in 1994 wrote that "changing the price of the dollar moment by moment in response to each transaction makes no more sense than altering the price of cornflakes every time a buyer takes a packet off the supermarket shelves."</p> <h2>A success by any measure</h2> <p>The floating exchange rate has served Australia well.</p> <p>When the Australian economy has slowed or contracted – in the early 1990s, the Asian financial crisis, the global financial crisis and in the COVID recession – the Australian dollar has fallen, making Australian exports cheaper in foreign markets.</p> <p>When mining booms have sucked money into the country, the Australian dollar has climbed, spreading the benefit and fighting inflation by increasing the buying power of Australian dollars.</p> <p>It’s why these days, hardly anyone wants to return to a <a href="https://www.rba.gov.au/education/resources/explainers/exchange-rates-and-their-measurement.html">pegged</a> rate.<!-- Below is The Conversation's page counter tag. Please DO NOT REMOVE. --><img style="border: none !important; box-shadow: none !important; margin: 0 !important; max-height: 1px !important; max-width: 1px !important; min-height: 1px !important; min-width: 1px !important; opacity: 0 !important; outline: none !important; padding: 0 !important;" src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/217548/count.gif?distributor=republish-lightbox-basic" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" /><!-- End of code. If you don't see any code above, please get new code from the Advanced tab after you click the republish button. The page counter does not collect any personal data. More info: https://theconversation.com/republishing-guidelines --></p> <p><em><a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/selwyn-cornish-1297285">Selwyn Cornish</a>, Honorary Associate Professor, Research School of Economics, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/australian-national-university-877">Australian National University</a> and <a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/john-hawkins-746285">John Hawkins</a>, Senior Lecturer, Canberra School of Politics, Economics and Society, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/university-of-canberra-865">University of Canberra</a></em></p> <p><em>Image </em><em>credits: Getty Images</em></p> <p><em>This article is republished from <a href="https://theconversation.com">The Conversation</a> under a Creative Commons license. Read the <a href="https://theconversation.com/happy-birthday-aud-how-our-australian-dollar-was-floated-40-years-ago-this-week-217548">original article</a>.</em></p>

Money & Banking

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How a secret plan 50 years ago changed Australia’s economy forever, in just one night

<p><em><a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/alex-millmow-4462">Alex Millmow</a>, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/federation-university-australia-780">Federation University Australia</a></em></p> <p>At a time when governments are timid, keener to announce <a href="https://www.pc.gov.au/inquiries/completed/productivity/report">reviews</a> than decisions, it’s refreshing to remember what happened 50 years ago today – on July 18 1973.</p> <p>Inflation had surged to <a href="https://www.datawrapper.de/_/vu9by/">14%</a>. Australia’s biggest customer, the United Kingdom, had joined the <a href="http://news.bbc.co.uk/onthisday/hi/dates/stories/january/1/newsid_2459000/2459167.stm">European Economic Community</a>, agreeing to buy products from it rather than Australia. And the newly formed Organisation of Arab Petroleum Exporting Countries had <a href="https://advisor.visualcapitalist.com/historical-oil-prices/">doubled</a> the price of oil.</p> <p>The tariffs imposed on imported goods to protect Australian manufacturers from competition were extraordinarily high. For clothing, they reached <a href="https://www.pc.gov.au/inquiries/completed/textile-clothing-footwear-1997/59tcf2.pdf">55%</a>; for motor vehicles, <a href="https://ro.uow.edu.au/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1077&amp;context=commwkpapers">45%</a>.</p> <p>Then, with absolutely <a href="http://andrewleigh.org/pdf/Trade%20liberalisation%20and%20the%20ALP.pdf">no</a> public indication he had been considering anything as drastic, at 7pm on Wednesday July 18, the recently elected prime minister Gough Whitlam made an <a href="https://pmtranscripts.pmc.gov.au/sites/default/files/original/00002971_0.pdf">announcement</a>.</p> <h2>Every tariff cut by one quarter overnight</h2> <p>From midnight, all tariffs would be cut by 25%. As Whitlam put it: “each tariff will be reduced by one quarter of what it is now”.</p> <figure class="align-right "><figcaption></figcaption></figure> <p>If Australian businesses (and the Australian public) were caught by surprise, it was because Whitlam had planned the whole thing in secret.</p> <p>He had given a six-person committee just three weeks to work out the details.</p> <p>Although the committee was chaired by the head of the Tariff Board, Alf Rattigan, and included an official from Whitlam’s own department, the department of industry and the department of trade, it met in an obscure location in Canberra’s civic centre rather than in public service offices, where the project might be discovered.</p> <p>Not included in the committee was a representative of the treasury, which its then deputy head John Stone said “<a href="https://cdn.theconversation.com/static_files/files/2744/Stone__The_Inside_Story_of_Gough%E2%80%99s_Tariff_Cut__in_The_Australian__18_July_2003..pdf">knew nothing</a>” about what was unfolding.</p> <p>But driving the work of the committee were two academic outsiders – Fred Gruen, an economics professor at the Australian National University and adviser to Whitlam, and Brian Brogan, an economics lecturer at Monash University who was advising the trade minister, Jim Cairns.</p> <h2>Outsiders, not treasury insiders</h2> <p>As economists rather than bureaucrats, Gruen and Brogan were able to see benefits where others saw entrenched interests. Going to the tariff board and asking for extra tariffs, whenever it looked as if your prices might be undercut by imports, had become a reflex action for Australian businesses.</p> <p>In the words of <a href="https://esavic.org.au/385/images/2013_GaryBanks.pdf">Gary Banks</a> – later to become head of the successor to the tariff board, the Productivity Commission: “it was not a shameful thing for a conga line of industrialists to be seen wending its way to Canberra”.</p> <p>Tariffs were good for business owners, although bad for their customers, who had to pay much higher prices and often got <a href="https://www.afr.com/opinion/bill-scales-the-rise-and-fall-of-the-australian-car-manufacturing-industry-20171018-gz3ky4">worse goods</a>. They were also good for government – bringing in tax revenue.</p> <p>Whitlam was more interested in bringing down inflation. His announcement said increased competition would "have a salutary effect upon those who have taken advantage of shortages by unjustified price increases which have exploited the public".</p> <p>Any firm seriously hurt by the extra imports could apply to a newly established tribunal for assistance, but the tribunal "should not provide relief as a matter of course – that is, simply because the question of relief had been referred to it".</p> <p>So Whitlam offered “rationalisation assistance” to encourage firms to refocus their operations, and “compensation for closure” where that couldn’t be done and production had to cease.</p> <p>For displaced workers, the 7pm announcement offered anyone who lost their job retraining, as well as "a weekly amount equal to his [sic] average wage in the previous six months until he obtains or is found suitable alternative employment."</p> <p>Over the next seven years, manufacturing employment fell by <a href="https://www.bitre.gov.au/sites/default/files/report_136_CHAPTER_6_WEB_FA.pdf">80,000</a>, but few of those job losses were immediate. Fifteen months after the 25% tariff cut, fewer than <a href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/20634782?seq=10">6,000</a> people had claimed the wage replacement offered on the night of the announcement.</p> <p>When Whitlam went to the polls a year after the cut in the double dissolution election of May 1974, 122 university economists signed an <a href="https://pmtranscripts.pmc.gov.au/release/transcript-3267">open letter</a> of support.</p> <p>The letter said the general thrust of the government’s policy responses had been in the best interests of the nation as a whole, and added, "more importantly, we seriously doubt that the previous government would have had the wisdom or the courage to undertake it. It had certainly given no indication of moving in that direction while it was in power, even though the need for such policies had become obvious".</p> <p>In its later days in office, the Whitlam government was roundly criticised for its irresponsible public spending. Ironically, in its approach to tariffs in the 1970s, it had taken the first steps in a neoliberal direction that characterised western governments of the 1980s.</p> <p>By acting boldly after decades of inaction, Whitlam showed what a government could do. It was a lesson his Labor successor Bob Hawke took to heart a decade later, when he floated the dollar, revamped Australia’s tax system and put in place a series of further cuts that reduced tariffs to near zero.</p> <p>It’s something we see less of today.<!-- Below is The Conversation's page counter tag. Please DO NOT REMOVE. --><img style="border: none !important; box-shadow: none !important; margin: 0 !important; max-height: 1px !important; max-width: 1px !important; min-height: 1px !important; min-width: 1px !important; opacity: 0 !important; outline: none !important; padding: 0 !important;" src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/209378/count.gif?distributor=republish-lightbox-basic" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" /><!-- End of code. If you don't see any code above, please get new code from the Advanced tab after you click the republish button. The page counter does not collect any personal data. More info: https://theconversation.com/republishing-guidelines --></p> <p><em><a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/alex-millmow-4462">Alex Millmow</a>, Senior Fellow, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/federation-university-australia-780">Federation University Australia</a></em></p> <p><em>Image credits: Getty Images</em></p> <p><em>This article is republished from <a href="https://theconversation.com">The Conversation</a> under a Creative Commons license. Read the <a href="https://theconversation.com/how-a-secret-plan-50-years-ago-changed-australias-economy-forever-in-just-one-night-209378">original article</a>.</em></p>

Money & Banking

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Serena Williams unveils exciting family news

<p>Tennis champion Serena Williams has surprised and delighted fans in equal measure by revealing she and husband Alexis Ohanian are expecting their second child together. </p> <p>The GOAT shared the news on Instagram before walking the Met Gala’s 2023 red carpet, posting a picture of herself and Alexis in their finest evening wear. Serena was glowing in her Gucci gown and pearls alongside her husband in the first picture, before she posed alone, showcasing her baby bump for the rest of the series. </p> <p>In her caption, Serena shared her excitement over the invite offered to “the 3 of us” by Anna Wintour, organiser of the Met Gala. </p> <p>The 2023 star-studded event was paying tribute to late designer Karl Legerfeld with its theme, and <a href="https://www.oversixty.com.au/lifestyle/beauty-style/stars-lead-the-met-gala-carpet-in-stunning-black-and-white" target="_blank" rel="noopener">attendees spared no cost in honouring it with their glitz and glamour</a>, and it was style to that same measure that Serena and Alexis took with them as they posed for the cameras lining the carpet.</p> <p>Friends and fans were thrilled, whether they saw the announcement through coverage of the event or on Serena’s social media, with hundreds taking to her initial post to share their excitement, and to congratulate them - and their daughter Olympia - on the happy new addition. </p> <p>While many opted for the simple ‘congratulations’ approach - from the likes of singer Ciara to the official Barbie and Olympics accounts - actor Michael B Jordan could not contain his enthusiasm, writing “AAAAYYYEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!” instead. </p> <p>“What a reveal,” declared the Australian Open. “Congratulations from your AO family!”</p> <p>“Happy for u momma,” shared actor Colton Haynes. </p> <p>Meanwhile, one fan had to admit that they “had to look three times!!! 3x a charm!! Congratulations!!!”</p> <p>Another’s thoughts turned to their excitement for 5-year-old Olympia, writing, “congratulation!!!!! Olympia [is] gonna be a big sister!!!!”</p> <p>“Love this for you and your family!” said another. “Wishin’ you a very healthy pregnancy!!!”</p> <blockquote class="instagram-media" style="background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);" data-instgrm-captioned="" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CruD3jjLOPB/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14"> <div style="padding: 16px;"> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="padding: 19% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: block; height: 50px; margin: 0 auto 12px; width: 50px;"> </div> <div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style="color: #3897f0; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 550; line-height: 18px;">View this post on Instagram</div> </div> <div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"> <div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"> </div> <div style="width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style="width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"> </div> <div style="width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"> </div> </div> <p style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;"><a style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CruD3jjLOPB/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" target="_blank" rel="noopener">A post shared by Serena Williams (@serenawilliams)</a></p> </div> </blockquote> <p>Serena and Alexis’ happy news came eight months after she made the announcement she would be retiring from professional tennis, wanting to focus on her family.</p> <p>"I have never liked the word retirement,” she said at the time, before going on to note that the term itself didn’t feel particularly ‘modern’ to her. She decided that the best word for her situation may instead be “evolution”.</p> <p>"I'm here to tell you that I'm evolving away from tennis,” she continued, “toward other things that are important to me … soon after that, I started a family. I want to grow that family."</p> <p><em>Images: Instagram</em></p>

Family & Pets

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Stars lead the Met Gala carpet in stunning black and white

<p dir="ltr">Often dubbed the “Super Bowl of fashion”, the annual Met Gala has once again showcased the best that high fashion has to offer. </p> <p dir="ltr">The Met Gala serves as the annual fundraiser for New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, and gives the whos-who of Hollywood the chance to experiment with their wildest fashion choices. </p> <p dir="ltr">This year, the annual affair celebrated the exhibition “<a href="https://www.vogue.com/article/karl-lagerfeld-a-line-of-beauty-will-be-the-metropolitan-museum-of-arts-spring-2023-costume-institute-exhibition" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty</a>,” which honours the legacy of the late designer who died in February 2019. </p> <p dir="ltr">Lagerfeld helmed fashion houses such as Chanel, Fendi, and his own eponymous line, and raised funds for The Met’s Costume Institute while having an immeasurable impact on the fashion industry. </p> <p dir="ltr">As a result of this year’s theme, the stars largely turned out in various designs of black and white, which was a class colour combination that became Lagerfeld’s signature. </p> <p dir="ltr">Some looks on the star-studded carpet included Lagerfeld’s staples such as Chanel tweed, pearl embellishments, seemingly conflicting texture and endless, endless tulle. </p> <p dir="ltr">Celebrities such as Nicole Kidman, Glenn Close, Hugh Jackman, Pedro Pascal, Naomi Campbell, Jessica Chastain, Salma Hayek, and many many more graced the carpet, posing up a storm and showing off their intricately designed looks. </p> <p dir="ltr">One of the more unusual looks on the carpet came from actor and musician Jared Leto, who ran with his own unique interpretation of the theme and arrived dressed as Karl Lagerfeld’s cat Choupette, which translates to “sweetie” in French. </p> <p dir="ltr">While many of the celebrities in attendance interpreted the theme in their own ways, there is no doubt that the Hollywood A-listers who were lucky enough to be invited know how to make an entrance. </p> <p dir="ltr"><em>All image credits: Getty Images</em></p>

Beauty & Style

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"40 years ago today": Alan Alda celebrates MASH milestone

<p>Alan Alda has celebrated the 40th anniversary of the iconic <em>M*A*S*H</em> (<em>MASH</em>) season finale. </p> <p>The series, which ran on CBS from 1972 to 1983, totalled an impressive 11 seasons with 251 episodes - all of which Alan Alda appeared in as the memorable Benjamin Franklin 'Hawkeye' Pierce. However, his credits weren’t limited to just acting, with Alda dabbling in some crew work during his time on the show. </p> <p>And it was Alda himself who wrote and directed the series finale, titled ‘Goodbye, Farewell, and Amen’. The episode ran for two-and-a-half hours, set a ratings record that many consider to be near impossible to beat, and reportedly still holds the title of being the most watched scripted television show episode of all time. In the US alone, over 60% of households tuned in to see the lives of the <em>MASH</em> unit change at the end of the Korean War. </p> <p>Now, 40 years after the episode went to air, Alda has looked back on the milestone, taking to Twitter to celebrate. Alda didn’t so much as have to mention the show’s title, with the show’s legacy doing the work for him. </p> <blockquote class="twitter-tweet"> <p dir="ltr" lang="en">40 years ago today. ⌛️❤️</p> <p>— Alan Alda (@alanalda) <a href="https://twitter.com/alanalda/status/1630617599116558369?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">February 28, 2023</a></p></blockquote> <p>In Alda’s replies, and on social media in general, a screengrab from the episode began to circulate - the word ‘goodbye’ spelled out in rocks on a small hillside - and fans proved eager to reflect and celebrate with him. </p> <p>“40 years ago today we got back 30 min of our Sunday night. I would gladly give 30 min of any night to watch the magnificent writings &amp; acting of that <em>MASH</em> unit again,” wrote one fan, before going on to thank those involved in the production. </p> <p>“<em>MASH</em> is one of my comfort shows and still brings me joy, laughter, and tears no matter how many times I’ve seen an episode,” said another, “thank you.” </p> <p>“Ended before I was even born, yet it's still one of my all-time favorite shows!” shared one fan too young to have caught the original run, but was thrilled to join in on the reminiscing, “I'm even in the middle of a rewatch at the moment!” </p> <p>“When I was a kid, I watched the show with my dad - usually as an excuse to stay up a little bit later and spend time with him,” someone else shared, “I wouldn't trade that for anything. This past summer, I watched it again with my son. Still perfect.”</p> <p>“It was shown later in the year here in the UK,” one fan told Alda, “my dad recorded it on our newly rented VCR. To this day he’s never watched the last episode as he never wanted it to end.”</p> <p>And for those seeking a return to <em>MASH </em>themselves, publicist Danny Deraney shared an emotional clip from the finale to celebrate the occasion, while citing the show’s ratings success. </p> <blockquote class="twitter-tweet"> <p dir="ltr" lang="en">40 years ago today, MASH aired its final episode. </p> <p>The episode, directed and Co-written by <a href="https://twitter.com/alanalda?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">@alanalda</a>, became the most watched television program in history.</p> <p>"Goodbye, Farewell, Amen." <a href="https://t.co/a0Qv252oCj">pic.twitter.com/a0Qv252oCj</a></p> <p>— Danny Deraney (@DannyDeraney) <a href="https://twitter.com/DannyDeraney/status/1630661000834990081?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">February 28, 2023</a></p></blockquote> <p><em>Images: Twitter, Getty</em></p>

TV

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Why the 2023 Met Gala theme is already facing controversy

<p dir="ltr">The theme for the 2023 Met Gala has been released, and is already causing controversy both online and within the fashion community. </p> <p dir="ltr">The annual fashion event will coincide with the Met's exhibition titled Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty, which will feature 150 pieces of clothing alongside Lagerfeld’s original sketches. </p> <p dir="ltr">If you’re unfamiliar with Karl Lagerfeld, he has a long history in the fashion industry, culminating in being the creative director of Chanel, Fendi, and his own label.</p> <p dir="ltr">Despite his hefty influence on fashion, Karl has regularly been the subject of many controversies, which have prompted a wave of backlash over his glorification in the form of the Met Gala theme subject. </p> <p dir="ltr">In particular, his anti-fat language surrounding women's bodies has been called "cruel", as he even explicitly said, "no one wants to see round women" when the magazine Brigitte announced that it would use "ordinary, realistic" women over models in 2009.</p> <p dir="ltr">Other controversial comments include calling Adele "a little too fat," Heidi Klum "too heavy," saying Pippa Middleton "should only show her back," and adding that Coco Chanel wasn't a feminist because she "was never ugly enough for that."</p> <p dir="ltr">The designer also has a murky history with sexual assault, as he defended stylist Karl Templer after he was accused of sexual assault and said, "If you don't want your pants pulled about, don't become a model! Join a nunnery, there'll always be a place for you in the convent." </p> <p dir="ltr">He also previously said he was "fed up" with the Me Too movement, and sent flowers to accused rapist Dominique Strauss-Kahn.</p> <p dir="ltr">Lagerfeld also has a long history of racism, as he called Muslims the "worst enemies" of Jewish people in 2017 while criticising the acceptance of refugees in France, in comments that were reexamined after his death in 2019. </p> <p dir="ltr">When the theme of the 2023 Met Gala was announced to be centred around Lagerfeld, many critics took to online spaces to express their anger and disappointment.</p> <p dir="ltr">Actor and activist Jameela Jamil led the charge, saying, "This man...was indeed, supremely talented, but used his platform in such a distinctly hateful way, mostly toward women, so repeatedly and up until the last years of his life, showing no remorse, offering no atonement, no apology, no help to groups he attacked. There was no explanation for his cruel outbursts."</p> <p dir="ltr">"Why is THIS who we celebrate when there are so many AMAZING designers out who aren't bigoted white men?" </p> <p dir="ltr">"We didn't fight all this s*** just to throw it all away because some white guy made some pretty clothes for people's skinny [favourites]...come on now."</p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Image credits: Getty Images</em></p>

Beauty & Style

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Neanderthals died out 40,000 years ago, but there has never been more of their DNA on Earth

<p>Neanderthals have served as a reflection of our own humanity since they were first discovered in <a href="https://www.nhm.ac.uk/discover/who-were-the-neanderthals.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener">1856</a>. What we think we know about them has been shaped and moulded to fit our cultural trends, social norms and scientific standards. They have changed from diseased specimens to primitive sub-human lumbering cousins to <a href="https://www.smithsonianmag.com/science-nature/rethinking-neanderthals-83341003/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">advanced humans</a>.</p> <p>We now know Homo neanderthalensis were very similar to ourselves and we even met them and frequently interbred. But why did they go extinct, while we <a href="https://global.oup.com/ukhe/product/the-cradle-of-humanity-9780198704539?cc=gb&amp;lang=en&amp;" target="_blank" rel="noopener">survived, flourished and ended up taking over the planet</a>?</p> <p>Neanderthals evolved over 400,000 years ago, most likely from an earlier ancestor <a href="https://humanorigins.si.edu/evidence/human-fossils/species/homo-heidelbergensis" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Homo heidelbergensis</a>. They were extremely successful and spread across an area from the Mediterranean to Siberia. They were highly intelligent, with brains on average <a href="https://www.livescience.com/60481-how-neanderthals-got-such-large-brains.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener">bigger than Homo sapiens‘s</a>.</p> <p>They hunted for <a href="https://theconversation.com/why-the-neanderthals-may-have-been-more-sophisticated-hunters-than-we-thought-new-study-98870" target="_blank" rel="noopener">big game</a>, collected plants, fungi, and seafood, controlled fire to cook, <a href="https://www.pnas.org/doi/10.1073/pnas.1907828116" target="_blank" rel="noopener">made composite tools</a>, made <a href="https://www.pnas.org/doi/10.1073/pnas.1112261109" target="_blank" rel="noopener">clothes from animal skins</a>, made beads from shells, and were able to <a href="https://www.pnas.org/doi/abs/10.1073/pnas.1411529111" target="_blank" rel="noopener">carve symbols on to cave walls</a>. They took care of their young, old and weak, created shelters for protection, lived through harsh winters and warm summers, and they buried their dead.</p> <p>Neanderthals did meet our ancestors on several occasions over the course of tens of thousands of years and the two species shared the European continent for at least 14,000 years. They even <a href="https://www.nature.com/articles/s41586-021-03335-3" target="_blank" rel="noopener">mated with each other</a>.</p> <h2>Death of a species</h2> <p>The most significant difference between Neanderthals and ourselves is that they went extinct about 40,000 years ago. The precise cause of their demise still eludes us, but we think it was probably the result of a combination of factors.</p> <p>First the climate of the last ice age was very variable, shifting from <a href="https://www.nature.com/articles/s41586-022-04600-9" target="_blank" rel="noopener">cold to warm and back again</a>, which put pressure on animal and plant food sources and meant Neanderthals constantly had to <a href="https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/jbi.12845" target="_blank" rel="noopener">adapt to environmental change</a>. Second there were never that many Neanderthals, with the overall population never exceeding the tens of thousands.</p> <p>They lived in groups of five to 15 individuals, compared with Homo Sapiens that had groups of up to <a href="https://theconversation.com/our-large-brains-evolved-thanks-to-an-ancient-arms-race-for-resources-and-mates-79183" target="_blank" rel="noopener">150 individuals</a>. These small isolated Neanderthal populations may have been increasingly genetically unsustainable.</p> <p>Third there was competition with other predators, particularly the <a href="https://theconversation.com/war-in-the-time-of-neanderthals-how-our-species-battled-for-supremacy-for-over-100-000-years-148205" target="_blank" rel="noopener">groups of modern humans</a> that emerged from Africa about 60,000 years ago. We speculate that many Neanderthals may have been assimilated into the larger bands of Homo sapiens.</p> <h2>Where’s the evidence?</h2> <p>Neanderthals left numerous traces for us to examine tens of thousands of years later, much of which can be seen at the special exhibition we have helped curate at the <a href="https://snm.ku.dk/english/exhibitions/neanderthal/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Natural History Museum of Denmark</a>. Over the past 150 years we have collected fossil bones, stone and wooden tools, found trinkets and jewellery they left behind, uncovered burials, and now mapped their genome from ancient DNA. It seems that <a href="https://www.nature.com/articles/s41586-021-03335-3" target="_blank" rel="noopener">99.7% of Neanderthal</a> and modern human DNA is identical and they are our closest extinct relatives.</p> <p>Perhaps the most surprising fact was evidence of <a href="https://www.nature.com/articles/s41586-021-03335-3" target="_blank" rel="noopener">interbreeding</a> that has left traces of DNA in living humans today. Many Europeans and Asians have between 1% and 4% Neanderthal DNA while African people south of the Sahara have almost zero. Ironically, with a current world population of about 8 billion people, this means that there has never been more Neanderthal DNA on Earth.</p> <p>The Neanderthal genome also helps us understand more of what they looked like, as there is evidence that some Neanderthals evolved pale skin and red hair long before Homo sapiens. The many genes that are shared between Neanderthals and modern humans are linked to anything from the ability to taste bitter foods to the capacity to speak.</p> <p>We have also increased our knowledge of human health. For instance, some Neanderthal DNA that might have been beneficial to humans tens of thousands of years ago now seems to cause issues when combined with a modern western lifestyle.</p> <p>There are links to alcoholism, obesity, allergies, blood clotting, and <a href="https://institutions.newscientist.com/article/2077269-our-neanderthal-genes-linked-to-risk-of-depression-and-addiction" target="_blank" rel="noopener">depression</a>. Recently, scientists suggested an ancient gene variant from Neanderthals might increase the risk of <a href="https://www.pnas.org/doi/10.1073/pnas.2026309118" target="_blank" rel="noopener">serious complications from contracting COVID-19</a>.</p> <h2>Holding up a mirror</h2> <p>Like the dinosaurs, the Neanderthals didn’t know what was coming. The difference is that the dinosaurs disappeared suddenly following a giant meteorite hit from outer space. To the Neanderthals extinction happened gradually. They eventually lost their world, a comfortable home they had successfully occupied for hundreds of thousands of years that slowly turned against them, until existence itself was unsustainable.</p> <p>In that sense, Neanderthals now serve a different purpose. We see our reflection in them. They didn’t know what was happening to them and they had no choice but to continue down the road that eventually led to extinction. We on the other hand are painfully aware of our situation and the impact we have on this planet.</p> <p>Human activity is <a href="https://theconversation.com/climate-change-how-bad-could-the-future-be-if-we-do-nothing-159665" target="_blank" rel="noopener">changing the climate</a> and is leading straight into a sixth mass extinction. We can reflect on the mess we have landed ourselves in and we can do something about it.</p> <p>If we don’t want to end up like the Neanderthals, we better get our act together and collectively work for a more sustainable future. Neanderthal extinction reminds us that we should never take our existence for granted.</p> <p><strong>This article originally appeared on <a href="https://theconversation.com/neanderthals-died-out-40-000-years-ago-but-there-has-never-been-more-of-their-dna-on-earth-189021" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a>.</strong></p> <p><em>Image: Shutterstock</em></p>

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“A tragedy for our nation”: Reason for Scott Morrison’s firing 16 years ago revealed

<p dir="ltr">The woman who sacked former Prime Minister Scott Morrison from Tourism Australia has finally opened up about the mysterious end to his time there and shared how she was “gobsmacked” that he went on to become PM.</p> <p dir="ltr">Mr Morrison’s firing from Tourism Australia in 2006 has long been shrouded in mystery, but Fran Bailey - who was Tourism Minister at the time and ordered the Chair of Tourism Australia to fire Mr Morrison - has now spoken about the decision in a brutal interview with the <em><a href="https://www.smh.com.au/national/i-was-gobsmacked-when-he-became-prime-minister-20220826-p5bd19.html" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Sunday Age</a></em>.</p> <p dir="ltr">Ms Bailey reportedly chose to finally speak on the record after she was left incensed by the revelations that Mr Morrison <a href="https://www.oversixty.com.au/news/news/andrew-bolt-leads-the-charge-on-scott-morrison-tirade" target="_blank" rel="noopener">secretly swore himself into five additional ministerial positions</a> while he was Prime Minister.</p> <p dir="ltr">"What has changed my mind is that all of those characteristics that make up Scott Morrison – the secrecy... the supreme belief that only he can do a job, the lack of consultation with those closest to him – those characteristics were evident 16 years ago, and perhaps we’re seeing the end result of those now," she told the paper’s longtime columnist, Jon Faine.</p> <p dir="ltr">Echoing a common criticism of Mr Morrison, Ms Bailey said he took a bullying approach to his work, which eventually led to those in senior positions having less trust that he could do his job.</p> <p dir="ltr">"It came down to a complete lack of trust. It’s not something that I have stewed over for all those 16 years, but I certainly have become very concerned as he worked his way through the ministry, and I was gobsmacked when he became prime minister," she said.</p> <p dir="ltr">"Because I knew what he was really like to work with, and I think that’s been a tragedy for the Liberal Party and it has been a tragedy for our nation."</p> <p dir="ltr">Ms Bailey is one of many critics calling on Mr Morrison to leave Parliament following the revelations, as former High Court judge Virginia Bell is expected to head an inquiry into his actions and hand down a report on November 25.</p> <p dir="ltr">The inquiry will examine Mr Morrison’s ministerial appointments and the functioning of departments, government business enterprises and statutory bodies.</p> <p dir="ltr">It comes after advice released last week from Australia’s solicitor-general found that Mr Morrison didn’t break any laws, but that his actions undermined the principles of “responsible government”.</p> <p><span id="docs-internal-guid-b515b564-7fff-c497-b6b2-a263d150c2a3"></span></p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Image: Getty Images</em></p>

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Mayan city collapse over 500 years ago linked to drought and social instability

<p>The Mayan civilisation was among the most advanced on Earth, based in Central America. But it wasn’t all smooth sailing even before the arrival of Europeans in the 16th century.</p> <p>Mayapán, 40km to the south-east of the modern city of Merida, in Mexico, was the political and cultural capital of the Maya in the Yucatán peninsula with thousands of buildings and a population of 15,000-17,000 during the city’s peak. Emerging in 1200CE, the city was eventually abandoned in 1450CE after its despotic rulers from the house of Cocom were overthrown.</p> <p>New research published in Nature Communications suggests that the civil unrest which led to the collapse of Mayapán emerged as a result of climatic changes.</p> <p>The interdisciplinary team included researchers from Australia’s University of New South Wales, the University of California in the US and the University of Cambridge in the UK. Their findings shed light on the impact of changes in the climate on societies, making use of records from the city from before the Colonial Period.</p> <p>A prolonged drought, the authors suggest, lasting between 1400 and 1450CE escalated existing social tensions in the city. The effects of the drought on food availability in particular provided the impetus for the civil conflict which eventually led to the city’s abandonment.</p> <p>“Our data indicate that institutional collapse occurred in the environmental context of drought and conflict within the city,” the authors explain. “Vulnerabilities of this coupled natural-social system existed because of the strong reliance on rain-fed maize agriculture, lack of centralised long-term grain storage, minimal opportunities for irrigation, and a sociopolitical system led by elite families with competing political interests, from different parts of the Yucatán Peninsula. We argue that long-term, climate-caused hardships provoked restive tensions that were fanned by political actors whose actions ultimately culminated in political violence more than once at Mayapán.”</p> <p>In addition to looking at the climate (political and environmental) during the collapse of Mayapán, the researchers also looked directly at human remains found in the ancient city.</p> <p>“Direct radiocarbon dates and mitochrondrial DNA sequences from the remains of individuals in the city’s final mass grave suggest they were family members of the heads of state (the Cocoms), ironically and meaningfully laid to rest at the base of the Temple of K’uk’ulkan, the iconic principal temple and ritual centtr of Mayapán.”</p> <p>The winds of revolution, the authors argue, were fanned by political actors while conditions were worsening for the city’s inhabitants. Chief leaders of the change in political power were the members of the Xiu family house.</p> <p>“Our results suggest that rivalry among governing elites at Mayapán materialised into action in the context of more frequent and/or severe droughts. Comparatively, such climate challenges present a range of opportunities for human actors, from the development of innovative adaptations to the stoking of revolution. These climate hardships and ensuing food shortages would have undermined the city’s economic base and enabled the Xiu-led usurpation. The unifying and resilient institutions that held the Mayapán state together until approximately 1450CE were ultimately eroded, the confederation dissolved, and the city largely abandoned,” they explain.</p> <p>But the researchers also note the ability of the Maya to persist despite their difficulties. Those that abandoned Mayapan went to other cities, towns and villages. “Yet economic, social, and religious traditions persevered until the onset of Spanish rule, despite the reduced scale of political units, attesting to a resilient system of human-environmental adaptations.”</p> <p>Such stories from human history provide food for thought as we face our own self-inflicted climate crisis which is exacerbating hardship for many millions around the world.</p> <p>The authors conclude: “Our transdisciplinary work highlights the importance of understanding the complex relationships between natural and social systems, especially when evaluating the role of climate change in exacerbating internal political tensions and factionalism in areas where drought leads to food insecurity.”</p> <p><strong><span id="docs-internal-guid-2bf462a3-7fff-8906-6d44-3d64cbb8ab38">This article originally appeared on <a href="https://cosmosmagazine.com/history/mayan-city-collapse-drought/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">cosmosmagazine.com</a> and was written by Evrim Yazgin.</span></strong></p> <p><em>Image: Shutterstock</em></p>

Travel Trouble

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This giant kangaroo once roamed New Guinea – descended from an Australian ancestor that migrated millions of years ago

<p>Long ago, almost up until the end of the last ice age, a peculiar giant kangaroo roamed the mountainous rainforests of New Guinea.</p> <p>Now, research to be <a href="https://doi.org/10.1080/03721426.2022.2086518" target="_blank" rel="noopener">published</a> on Thursday by myself and colleagues suggests this kangaroo was not closely related to modern Australian kangaroos. Rather, it represents a previously unknown type of primitive kangaroo unique to New Guinea.</p> <p><strong>The age of megafauna</strong></p> <p>Australia used to be home to all manner of giant animals called megafauna, until most of them went extinct about 40,000 years ago. These megafauna lived alongside animals we now consider characteristic of the Australian bush – kangaroos, koalas, crocodiles and the like – but many were larger species of these.</p> <p>There were giant wombats called <em>Phascolonus</em>, 2.5-metre-tall short-faced kangaroos, and the 3-tonne <em>Diprotodon optatum</em> (the largest marsupial ever). In fact, some Australian megafaunal species, such as the red kangaroo, emu and cassowary, survive through to the modern day.</p> <p>The fossil megafauna of New Guinea are considerably less well-studied than those of Australia. But despite being shrouded in mystery, New Guinea’s fossil record has given us hints of fascinating and unusual animals whose evolutionary stories are entwined with Australia’s.</p> <p>Palaeontologists have done sporadic expeditions and fossil digs in New Guinea, including digs by American and Australian researchers in the 1960s, ’70s and ’80s.</p> <p>It was during an archaeological excavation in the early 1970s, led by Mary-Jane Mountain, that two jaws of an extinct giant kangaroo were unearthed. A young researcher (now professor) named Tim Flannery called the species <em>Protemnodon nombe</em>.</p> <p>The fossils Flannery described are about 20,000–50,000 years old. They come from the Nombe Rockshelter, an archaeological and palaeontological site in the mountains of central Papua New Guinea. This site also delivered fossils of another kangaroo and giant four-legged marsupials called diprotodontids.</p> <p><strong>An unexpected discovery</strong></p> <p>Flinders University Professor Gavin Prideaux and I recently re-examined the fossils of <em>Protemnodon nombe</em> and found something unexpected. This strange kangaroo was not a species of the genus <em>Protemnodon</em>, which used to live all over Australia, from the Kimberley to Tasmania. It was something a lot more primitive and unknown.</p> <p>In particular, its unusual molars with curved enamel crests set it apart from all other known kangaroos. We moved the species into a brand new genus unique to New Guinea and (very creatively) renamed it <em>Nombe nombe</em>.</p> <figure><iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/724328370" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe><figcaption><em><span class="caption">A 3D surface scan of a specimen of Nombe nombe, specifically a fossilised lower jaw from central Papua New Guinea. (Courtesy of Papua New Guinea Museum and Art Gallery, Port Moresby).</span></em></figcaption></figure> <p>Our findings show <em>Nombe</em> may have evolved from an ancient form of kangaroo that migrated into New Guinea from Australia in the late Miocene epoch, some 5–8 million years ago.</p> <p>In those days, the islands of New Guinea and Australia were connected by a land bridge due to lower sea levels – whereas today they’re separated by the Torres Strait.</p> <p>This “bridge” allowed early Australian mammals, including megafauna, to migrate to New Guinea’s rainforests. When the Torres Strait flooded again, these animal populations became disconnected from their Australian relatives and evolved separately to suit their tropical and mountainous New Guinean home.</p> <p>We now consider <em>Nombe</em> to be the descendant of one of these ancient lineages of kangaroos. The squat, muscular animal lived in a diverse mountainous rainforest with thick undergrowth and a closed canopy. It evolved to eat tough leaves from trees and shrubs, which gave it a thick jawbone and strong chewing muscles.</p> <p>The species is currently only known from two fossil lower jaws. And much more remains to be discovered. Did <em>Nombe</em> hop like modern kangaroos? Why did it go extinct?</p> <p>As is typical of palaeontology, one discovery inspires an entire host of new questions.</p> <p><strong>Strange but familiar animals</strong></p> <p>Little of the endemic animal life of New Guinea is known outside of the island, even though it is very strange and very interesting. Very few Australians have much of an idea of what’s there, just over the strait.</p> <p>When I went to the Papua New Guinea Museum in Port Moresby early in my PhD, I was thrilled by the animals I encountered. There are several living species of large, long-nosed, worm-eating echidna – one of which weighs up to 15 kilograms.</p> <figure class="align-center zoomable"><a href="https://images.theconversation.com/files/471027/original/file-20220627-22-91nec3.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=1000&amp;fit=clip"><img src="https://images.theconversation.com/files/471027/original/file-20220627-22-91nec3.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=754&amp;fit=clip" sizes="(min-width: 1466px) 754px, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, (min-width: 600px) 600px, 237px" srcset="https://images.theconversation.com/files/471027/original/file-20220627-22-91nec3.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=600&amp;h=451&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=1 600w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/471027/original/file-20220627-22-91nec3.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=30&amp;auto=format&amp;w=600&amp;h=451&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=2 1200w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/471027/original/file-20220627-22-91nec3.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=15&amp;auto=format&amp;w=600&amp;h=451&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=3 1800w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/471027/original/file-20220627-22-91nec3.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=45&amp;auto=format&amp;w=754&amp;h=567&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=1 754w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/471027/original/file-20220627-22-91nec3.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=30&amp;auto=format&amp;w=754&amp;h=567&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=2 1508w, https://images.theconversation.com/files/471027/original/file-20220627-22-91nec3.jpeg?ixlib=rb-1.1.0&amp;q=15&amp;auto=format&amp;w=754&amp;h=567&amp;fit=crop&amp;dpr=3 2262w" alt="Author Isaac Kerr poses for a photo, holding an Australian giant kangaroo jaw in his left hand" /></a><figcaption><em><span class="caption">I’m excited to start digging in New Guinea’s rainforests!</span> <span class="attribution"><span class="license">Author provided</span></span></em></figcaption></figure> <p>There are also dwarf cassowaries and many different wallaby, tree kangaroo and possum species that don’t exist in Australia – plus many more in the fossil record.</p> <p>We tend to think of these animals as being uniquely Australian, but they have other intriguing forms in New Guinea.</p> <p>As an Australian biologist, it’s both odd and exhilarating to see these “Aussie” animals that have expanded into new and weird forms in another landscape.</p> <p>Excitingly for me and my colleagues, <em>Nombe nombe</em> may breathe some new life into palaeontology in New Guinea. We’re part of a small group of researchers that was recently awarded a grant to undertake three digs at two different sites in eastern and central Papua New Guinea over the next three years.</p> <p>Working with the curators of the Papua New Guinea Museum and other biologists, we hope to inspire young local biology students to study palaeontology and discover new fossil species. If we’re lucky, there may even be a complete skeleton of <em>Nombe nombe</em> waiting for us.<!-- Below is The Conversation's page counter tag. Please DO NOT REMOVE. --><img style="border: none !important; box-shadow: none !important; margin: 0 !important; max-height: 1px !important; max-width: 1px !important; min-height: 1px !important; min-width: 1px !important; opacity: 0 !important; outline: none !important; padding: 0 !important;" src="https://counter.theconversation.com/content/185778/count.gif?distributor=republish-lightbox-basic" alt="The Conversation" width="1" height="1" /><!-- End of code. If you don't see any code above, please get new code from the Advanced tab after you click the republish button. The page counter does not collect any personal data. More info: https://theconversation.com/republishing-guidelines --></p> <p><em><a href="https://theconversation.com/profiles/isaac-alan-robert-kerr-1356949" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Isaac Alan Robert Kerr</a>, PhD Candidate for Palaeontology, <a href="https://theconversation.com/institutions/flinders-university-972" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Flinders University</a></em></p> <p><em>This article is republished from <a href="https://theconversation.com" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a> under a Creative Commons license. Read the <a href="https://theconversation.com/this-giant-kangaroo-once-roamed-new-guinea-descended-from-an-australian-ancestor-that-migrated-millions-of-years-ago-185778" target="_blank" rel="noopener">original article</a>.</em></p> <p><em>Image: Supplied</em></p>

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Marilyn Monroe dress allegedly damaged after Met Gala appearance

<p dir="ltr">After sparking ire among fashion and history experts for <a href="https://oversixty.com.au/lifestyle/beauty-style/marilyn-monroe-dress-designer-weighs-in-on-kim-kardashian-s-met-gala-outfit" target="_blank" rel="noopener">wearing Marilyn Monroe’s iconic <em>Happy Birthday Mr President</em> gown</a> at the Met Gala, images have emerged suggesting that Kim Kardashian may have damaged the 60-year-old garment.</p> <p dir="ltr">Its current owner, Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Museum, has said that the dress was returned undamaged after Kardashian wore it.</p> <p><span id="docs-internal-guid-5d66cbfb-7fff-8e92-b1f7-6ad8b77775a7">Amanda Joiner, a vice president of licensing and publishing at Ripley’s, told the Daily Beast that “a lot of requirements” were put in place while it was handled.</span></p> <blockquote class="twitter-tweet"> <p dir="ltr" lang="en">And this is why every historical garment archivist and textile expert about had a coronary seeing Kim Kardashian in Marilyn Monroe's dress. <a href="https://t.co/XIs9MOeEiK">https://t.co/XIs9MOeEiK</a></p> <p>— Kathryn #GoBolts⛈️ Brightbill (@KEBrightbill) <a href="https://twitter.com/KEBrightbill/status/1536452582352224262?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">June 13, 2022</a></p></blockquote> <p dir="ltr">“The dress was never with Kim alone. It was always with a Ripley’s representative. We always ensured that at any time we felt that the dress was in danger of ripping or we felt uncomfortable about anything, we always had the ability to say we were not going to continue with this,” Joiner said.</p> <p dir="ltr">“We did two different fittings with her. The first one was in L.A. in April and then the second one later in April to see whether or not the dress would fit. The biggest challenge that we had is that we really wanted to make sure that we kept the integrity of the dress and the preservation, because it’s 60 years old, and we feel that it’s such an iconic piece of fashion, both from a historical perspective, but also from a pop culture perspective.”</p> <p><span id="docs-internal-guid-56f5cbf4-7fff-ace1-dfe3-93a69841619e"></span></p> <p dir="ltr">However, <em><a href="https://twitter.com/PopCrave/status/1536415873421914112" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Pop Culture</a></em> posted side-by-side photos of the gown allegedly from before and after Kardashian wore it, with the ‘after’ image showing signs of stretched fabric around one of the snaps and missing crystals around the back closure.</p> <blockquote class="twitter-tweet"> <p dir="ltr" lang="en">the quotes are so damn ignorant, it's not about the actual dress. it's about the meaning. marilyn was used all her life, she hardly had anything that was truly her own. This dress, it was hers. it was designed specifically and ONLY for her. now it's ruined. <a href="https://t.co/4MO4jDHFcR">https://t.co/4MO4jDHFcR</a></p> <p>— ✨ (@shipsandshows) <a href="https://twitter.com/shipsandshows/status/1536425419116883969?ref_src=twsrc%5Etfw">June 13, 2022</a></p></blockquote> <p dir="ltr">Fans were quick to weigh in with their thoughts, blaming Kardashian for the damage and pointing out the importance of conserving historical items.</p> <p dir="ltr">“Kim should’ve never worn that dress to begin with. I mean yes it’s nice to pay homage to Marilyn but she could’ve had a new dress made and replicated. This was a timeless and iconic artefact that’s been ruined,” one person commented.</p> <p dir="ltr">“Leave it to Kim to destroy a historical piece of art,” another said.</p> <p dir="ltr">“Congratulations to the Met Gala for showcasing a real-life example of why a conservation department like the Costume Institute is necessary for historically significant garments,” a third added.</p> <p dir="ltr">Collector Scott Fortner, who also shared images of the dress’ alleged damage online, told <em><a href="https://news.sky.com/story/lending-marilyn-monroe-dress-to-kim-kardashian-was-irresponsible-collector-says-12633589" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Sky News</a></em> it was “irresponsible” for the museum to loan the gown to Kardashian.</p> <p dir="ltr">"I think the disappointment that I'm experiencing is Ripley has made multiple statements that they were doing everything that they could to protect and preserve the gown," he told the outlet.</p> <p dir="ltr">"I do feel that it (was) irresponsible, this is not just a dress.</p> <p dir="ltr">"This is a cultural icon. It's a political icon. It's a Hollywood icon.</p> <p dir="ltr">"It's part of American history from an event that happened 60 years ago and…it should have been archived and preserved and taken care of."</p> <p dir="ltr">The gown was made using 6,000 crystals and was hand-sewn by costumier Jean Lewis.</p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Images: @lmorrisette (Twitter) / Getty Images</em></p>

Beauty & Style

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Marilyn Monroe dress designer weighs in on Kim Kardashian’s Met Gala outfit

<p dir="ltr">The designer who sketched Marilyn Monroe’s original ‘Happy Birthday, Mr President’ dress has weighed in on Kim Kardashion’s choice to re-wear the dress at the Met Gala awards - and his opinion of it is less than glowing.</p> <p dir="ltr">In a recent interview with <em><a href="https://ew.com/celebrity/bob-mackie-kim-kardashian-wearing-marilyn-monroe-dress-big-mistake/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Entertainment Weekly</a></em>, 82-year-old costume designer Bob Mackie described Kardashian’s controversial outfit choice as a “big mistake”.</p> <p dir="ltr">“[Monroe] was a goddess. A crazy goddess, but a goddess,” he told the publication.</p> <p dir="ltr">"She was just fabulous. Nobody photographs like that. And it was done for her. It was designed for her. Nobody else should be seen in that dress."</p> <p dir="ltr">Mackie, whose claim to fame includes dressing Lucille Ball, Judy Garland and Cher, sketched the design for Monroe’s gown in 1962.</p> <p dir="ltr">He then sent the sketch to his boss, French fashion designer Jean Louis, who made the gown a reality.</p> <p dir="ltr">Kardashian caused a stir after she reached out to Ripley’s ‘Believe It or Not’ museum in Orlando - which famously bought Monroe’s gown for $6.7 million in 2016 - and was allowed to try it in a private fitting.</p> <p dir="ltr">They then workshopped how she could “fake” fitting into the dress for the 2022 Met Gala, in a move that has caused concern among fashion historians and collectors.</p> <p dir="ltr">Scott Fortner, a Marilyn Monroe artefact collector, told <em><a href="https://people.com/style/bob-mackie-marilyn-monroe-kim-kardashian-2022-met-gala/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">People</a></em> that, since the dress was exclusively designed for Monroe and involved her being nude while it was sewn to her body, it can be deduced that some “stress” was done to the dress when Kardashian gave it a try.</p> <p dir="ltr">“The gown worn by anyone else will not be a precise fit,” Fortner said. “In this case, Kim Kardashian's measurements are somewhat different than Marilyn's. It's logically assumed the fabric and seams were stressed."</p> <p dir="ltr">Alicia Malone, the Aussie TV host of Turner Classic Movies and the network’s new fashion series Follow the Thread, also told Entertainment Weekly that there’s an issue with Kardashian wearing an item so intrinsically tied to Monroe.</p> <p dir="ltr">"I don't know what Kim Kardashian sees in Marilyn herself, or how much she knows about her history, but definitely now, Kim will be tied to that dress as Marilyn is," she said.</p> <p dir="ltr">"So it'll be the Marilyn Monroe dress that Kim Kardashian also wore to the Met Gala."</p> <p><span id="docs-internal-guid-e76b299b-7fff-4a07-aa39-8510c8a0c943"></span></p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Images: Getty Images</em></p>

Beauty & Style

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The secret behind Lizzo’s long-lasting Met Gala makeup REVEALED

<p dir="ltr">The 2022 Met Gala has delivered some stunning looks, with celebrities donning <a href="https://www.oversixty.com.au/lifestyle/beauty-style/all-the-most-controversial-and-stunning-looks-from-met-gala-2022" target="_blank" rel="noopener">show stopping pieces</a> in response to this year’s theme. </p> <p><span id="docs-internal-guid-d252c8f7-7fff-7251-d762-14621c1b8f96"></span></p> <p dir="ltr">Singer and rapper Lizzo was one of the many stars who went all-out on the night, wearing a black coat with golden, leafy embroidering, complemented by her glowing makeup and her $77,000 gold-plated flute, which she briefly played on the red carpet.</p> <blockquote class="instagram-media" style="background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);" data-instgrm-captioned="" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/reel/CdFIicljFcU/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14"> <div style="padding: 16px;"> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="padding: 19% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: block; height: 50px; margin: 0 auto 12px; width: 50px;"> </div> <div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style="color: #3897f0; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 550; line-height: 18px;">View this post on Instagram</div> </div> <div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"> <div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"> </div> <div style="width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style="width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"> </div> <div style="width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"> </div> </div> <p style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;"><a style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" href="https://www.instagram.com/reel/CdFIicljFcU/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" target="_blank" rel="noopener">A post shared by MTV (@mtv)</a></p> </div> </blockquote> <p dir="ltr">But, playing a flute - or most other wind instruments - can pose some major challenges for makeup. With condensation caused by directing warm breath into a mouthpiece and the tendency for makeup to rub against said metal mouthpiece as you play, it creates a less-than-ideal environment for makeup to stay where it’s supposed to or stay on for long.</p> <p dir="ltr">While this isn’t a problem for anyone who isn’t a flautist, ensuring makeup stays where it belongs and lasts after eating, drinking, and while going about our day is an issue more of us can relate to.</p> <p dir="ltr">So what’s her secret?</p> <p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-62ac0951-7fff-93d2-8aef-9512e121cdde"></span></p> <p dir="ltr">According to Lizzo’s long-time makeup artist, Alexx Mayo, it’s all about keeping things dry.</p> <blockquote class="instagram-media" style="background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);" data-instgrm-captioned="" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CdE-nEGuKZ6/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14"> <div style="padding: 16px;"> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="padding: 19% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: block; height: 50px; margin: 0 auto 12px; width: 50px;"> </div> <div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style="color: #3897f0; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 550; line-height: 18px;">View this post on Instagram</div> </div> <div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"> <div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"> </div> <div style="width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style="width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"> </div> <div style="width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"> </div> </div> <p style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;"><a style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CdE-nEGuKZ6/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" target="_blank" rel="noopener">A post shared by ALEXX MAYO (@iwantalexx)</a></p> </div> </blockquote> <p dir="ltr">In a 2019 interview with <em><a href="https://edit.sundayriley.com/lizzo-makeup-artist-alexx-mayo/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Sunday Edit</a></em>, Mayo revealed that making a “flute-proof lip” relies on a matte lipstick in a high-saturated colour.</p> <p dir="ltr">“There is something about the way her lips blow on the instrument to make a certain noise that they have to be drier. Her having any sort of cream or gloss on will affect how she blows air into the flute,” Mayo explained at the time.</p> <p dir="ltr">“To really make the flute-proof lip, we use a liquid matte lipstick, something that has a high saturated colour but dries down so she can eat, drink, play the flute and [we know] it is not going to go anywhere.”</p> <p dir="ltr">For the Met Gala, Mayo prepped Lizzo’s skin with Charlotte Tilbury products, including the brand’s <a href="https://www.charlottetilbury.com/au/product/charlottes-magic-cream-30ml" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Magic Cream</a>, <a href="https://www.charlottetilbury.com/au/product/travel-sized-magic-face-serum" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Magic Serum Crystal Elixir</a>, and <a href="https://www.charlottetilbury.com/au/product/collagen-superfusion-facial-oil-8ml" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Collagen Superfusion Facial Oil</a>.</p> <p dir="ltr">When it came to her deep purple lipstick, Mayo again explained how dryness and pigment came into play.</p> <p dir="ltr">“I used the Charlotte Tilbury <a href="https://www.charlottetilbury.com/au/product/lip-cheat-berry-naughty" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Lip Cheat pencil in Bad Romance</a> to shape and fill in the lip entirely,” Mayo told InStyle. “I like to start on a well-hydrated lip that has been blotted to remove any excess oil for a super long-lasting application.</p> <p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-49017e27-7fff-b353-1779-f6a3ad7d04ed"></span></p> <p dir="ltr">“Next, I used Charlotte’s <a href="https://www.charlottetilbury.com/au/product/matte-revolution-festival-magic" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Matte Revolution Lipstick in Festival Magic</a> with a precision lip brush to fill in the entire lip. Blot once again and apply to seal in the saturation.”</p> <blockquote class="instagram-media" style="background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);" data-instgrm-captioned="" data-instgrm-permalink="https://www.instagram.com/p/CdEzOvisTMX/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" data-instgrm-version="14"> <div style="padding: 16px;"> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="padding: 19% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: block; height: 50px; margin: 0 auto 12px; width: 50px;"> </div> <div style="padding-top: 8px;"> <div style="color: #3897f0; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 550; line-height: 18px;">View this post on Instagram</div> </div> <div style="padding: 12.5% 0;"> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;"> <div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: 8px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;"> </div> <div style="width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg);"> </div> </div> <div style="margin-left: auto;"> <div style="width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);"> </div> <div style="width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);"> </div> </div> </div> <div style="display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;"> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;"> </div> <div style="background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;"> </div> </div> <p style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;"><a style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;" href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CdEzOvisTMX/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading" target="_blank" rel="noopener">A post shared by Lizzo (@lizzobeeating)</a></p> </div> </blockquote> <p dir="ltr">Charlotte Tilbury’s range of deluxe beauty products has had its praises sung by a growing number of fans and was the go-to for a number of celebrities at the Met Gala, including Blake Lively, who reportedly debuted a yet-unreleased bronzer according to <em><a href="https://www.allure.com/story/met-gala-2022-blake-lively-charlotte-tilbury-bronzer" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Allure</a></em>.</p> <p dir="ltr">Though its high praises come with an equally high price-tag - with Lizzo’s look costing about $AUD 264 from the brand’s website - you can still achieve a long-wearing look with Mayo’s words of wisdom and the appropriate lippie. </p> <p dir="ltr"><span id="docs-internal-guid-3ed8d54c-7fff-cc49-b4be-97b40a8af7f5"></span></p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Image: Getty Images</em></p>

Beauty & Style

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Energy bills are spiking after the Russian invasion. We should have doubled-down on renewables years ago

<p>Russia’s invasion of Ukraine is happening half a planet away from Australia. </p> <p>But the ripple effects are plain to see at every petrol station and, potentially soon, your electricity bill. </p> <p>As a result of the invasion and Western sanctions on Russian exports, energy prices have skyrocketed. </p> <p>If that makes you think nations should have taken steps to secure alternatives to fossil fuels years ago, you’re not alone. As it is, the much higher energy prices are likely to accelerate the exit of coal – and gas – from our energy grids. </p> <p>This should be a wake-up call. It doesn’t matter that Australia is far from the battlefield. Everyone in the world will be affected in some way.</p> <h2>What’s the link between the invasion and Australian energy prices?</h2> <p>You might think Australia’s domestic supply of coal and gas means we’d be immune to price rises. Not so. </p> <p>Due to formal sanctions and informal shunning of Russian exports, oil, coal and gas are now extremely expensive on a global scale. Thermal coal prices have increased five-fold to an unprecedented ~$A500 per tonne. Oil is ~$140 a barrel and up 60% year on year. Natural gas in Europe is around 50% higher than last October, but since the invasion, prices have spiked as high as ~200% higher than 2021 levels. </p> <p>Coal buyers are locking in supply, concerned that Russian sanctions will continue. Russia is the <a href="https://www.spglobal.com/commodity-insights/en/market-insights/latest-news/metals/030722-factbox-russian-metals-industrys-reliance-on-china-set-to-rise-as-sanctions-disrupt-supplies">third largest exporter of coal</a> and its existing customers are now under pressure to find alternative supplies. </p> <p>Russia’s aggression is not just resulting in a major humanitarian and political crisis. It is also causing pain at the bowser for Australian consumers due to the surge in oil pricing and may soon result in higher electricity bills. </p> <p>Australia’s east-coast electricity market is still heavily reliant upon coal. While many coal-fired power stations have existing supply contracts, the much higher global coal price may increase the cost of any extra coal purchases by existing power stations. </p> <p>Not only that, but our gas-fired power stations are facing potential increases in operating costs due to much higher global gas prices. </p> <p>Unfortunately, we may see the result in rising power bills. The price of future contracts for wholesale electricity next year in NSW are now twice what they were a year ago. Assuming this flows through to end-users, prices for residential customers could increase by as much as 10–15%. </p> <h2>So what should Australia do?</h2> <p>While it’s too late to dodge this bullet, we can prepare for future shocks by doubling down on firmed renewables. The faster we move, the less we’ll be hit by the price and reliability risks of coal. </p> <p>Already under pressure from cheaper renewable technologies, coal power station operators now find themselves potentially facing much higher costs in the short-term. There’s no relief for coal in the long term either, with the rapid rise of renewables and other zero-carbon technologies.</p> <p>Not only that, but most of our coal power stations are near the end of their lives, and industry doesn’t want to build new ones. That means coal will become more and more expensive, as the plants become <a href="https://www.aemo.com.au/-/media/files/electricity/nem/planning_and_forecasting/inputs-assumptions-methodologies/2020/aep-elical-assessment-of-ageing-coal-fired-generation-reliability.pdf">increasingly unreliable</a>. </p> <p>Wind and solar technologies are now much cheaper per unit of energy generated and can be integrated with energy storage to provide dispatchable “firmed” energy. The faster we transition to renewables firmed by storage, the better.</p> <p>If we do this, our new grid will also be more reliable. Continuing to rely upon coal is like relying upon a 1970s car to travel from Sydney to Melbourne on the hottest day of the year. </p> <p>State governments around the nation are already embracing this approach, with the New South Wales government moving ahead with plans for 12 gigawatts (GW) of new renewables and storage and the Victorian government announcing plans for 9GW of offshore windfarms. </p> <p>Governments must carefully design policies to avoid guaranteeing profits for private sector players while socialising any losses across taxpayers and energy consumers. In NSW, <a href="https://econpapers.repec.org/article/blaajarec/v_3a66_3ay_3a2022_3ai_3a1_3ap_3a136-163.htm">alternatives</a> are being considered.</p> <p>As European and many other nations scramble to reduce their dependency on Russian coal, oil and gas, Australia now has a once in a generation opportunity to become a leading exporter of new clean energy. </p> <p>We have truly enormous clean energy resources in the form of free sunlight and wind. To export it, we can either run underseas cables to neighbouring countries, or convert cheap renewable power into <a href="https://theconversation.com/green-hydrogen-is-coming-and-these-australian-regions-are-well-placed-to-build-our-new-export-industry-174466">green hydrogen</a> and ship this to the world just as we currently do with LNG.</p> <h2>What else can we expect to see?</h2> <p>Surging fossil fuel prices has supercharged the existing disruption to an already rapidly changing domestic energy industry. In the past month, Origin announced it would abandon coal more rapidly, with the closure of its NSW coal-fired power station, Eraring, in 2025. </p> <p>Meanwhile, AGL has been pursuing a “demerger” with a view to splitting off its coal assets and pursuing new energy technologies. This comes as Australian tech billionaire Mike Cannon-Brookes and Canadian asset fund Brookfield <a href="https://www.abc.net.au/news/2022-03-06/brt-agl-brookfield-bid-rejected/100887042">offered to buy AGL</a> for $8.25 a share, though they were not successful. Their plan was to accelerate the closure of AGL’s coal assets, which would move AGL from the <a href="https://www.greenpeace.org.au/news/new-government-data-reveals-agl-as-australias-biggest-climate-polluter/">highest carbon emitter in Australia</a> to a clean energy company. The age of coal power is ending, and much faster than most of us realise.</p> <p>This crisis should spur us to build a future-proofed fleet of “firmed” and well-distributed renewables with a known cost structure. </p> <p>By doing this, we will protect ourselves from the pain of geopolitically driven fossil fuel prices. And we will have a platform ready if we want to provide clean energy to the world in the form of green hydrogen.</p> <p>We have had decades to make full use of our wealth of renewable energy resources. We haven’t embraced this as fully as we should have. </p> <p>It turns out localised clean energy production is not just necessary to tackle climate change. It will prove a vital resource as we navigate the highly turbulent decade we have found ourselves in.</p> <p><em>Image credits: Getty Images </em></p> <p><em>This article originally appeared on <a href="https://theconversation.com/energy-bills-are-spiking-after-the-russian-invasion-we-should-have-doubled-down-on-renewables-years-ago-179336" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a>. </em></p>

Home Hints & Tips

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15 countries that existed 100 years ago but don’t anymore

<p><strong>Yugoslavia </strong></p> <p><span>A hundred years ago, World War I wreaked all kinds of havoc on the borders of Europe. Yugoslavia, a southeastern European country created in 1918 as “the Kingdom of the Serbs, Croats and Slovenes” and renamed Yugoslavia a decade later, united many culturally and ethnically diverse territories that were part of the former Austro-Hungarian Empire. </span></p> <p><span>The new nation included the current states of Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Montenegro, Kosovo and Macedonia. </span></p> <p><span>But Yugoslavia was headed for more strife in the 20th century: broken up and occupied during World War II, reunited under a communist leader post-war, followed later by fighting during the 1990s. </span></p> <p><span>Now that the country is officially no longer, much of the region is experiencing greater peace. </span></p> <p><span>Croatia’s coastal city of Dubrovnik doubles for the hit HBO series </span><em>Game of Thrones</em><span>’ King’s Landing, making it such a popular tourist destination that it had to limit the number of visitors.</span></p> <p><strong>Tibet</strong></p> <p><span>Although we associate Tibet with peaceful Buddhist monks and its spiritual leader the Dalai Lama, this region northwest of India has been fought over for centuries. </span></p> <p><span>Tibet was actually its own independent country only from 1912 to 1951, when it was made part of China. </span></p> <p><span>Efforts to ‘free Tibet’ are ongoing, and the Nobel Peace Prize-winning Dalai Lama, now retired, still resides in exile in India. </span></p> <p><span>The country is also a destination for adventure seekers and mountaineers because it contains the highest point on Earth, the nearly 8849 metre Mount Everest, which lies on the border of Nepal.</span></p> <p><strong>Neutral Moresnet</strong></p> <p><span>Never heard of Neutral Moresnet? You’re not the only one. </span></p> <p><span>This minuscule country of just over two-and-a-half square kilometres was carved out of an agreement between the Dutch and the Prussians (more on them later) in 1816, so both nations would have access to its zinc mine. </span></p> <p><span>Neutral Moresnet had its own flag and even made its own coins. Efforts were made to turn the tiny nation into a utopia with its own artificial ‘world language,’ Esperanto. </span></p> <p><span>But it fell victim to World War I, and then became part of Belgium. </span></p> <p><span>The present-day residents of the area, however, still celebrate the anniversary of Neutral Moresnet’s creation.</span></p> <p><strong>Newfoundland</strong></p> <p><span>You might think of the rugged island of Newfoundland as part of Canada, but that wasn’t always the case. </span></p> <p><span>The island off North America’s northeastern coast was also previously a British colony, but its isolation created a culture distinct from the surrounding region. </span></p> <p><span>Newfoundland became a self-governing independent nation, although still a British ‘dominion,’ from 1907 until 1934, when it voluntarily chose to go back to being a colony after the Great Depression hit hard. </span></p> <p><span>In 1949, Newfoundland became a Canadian province, now known as Newfoundland and Labrador (interestingly, both names of dog breeds as well!).</span></p> <p><strong>Abyssinia</strong></p> <p><span>This romantic-sounding name was actually the Arab and European moniker for Ethiopia a hundred years ago. </span></p> <p><span>In the ‘Scramble for Africa’ at the end of the 19th century, Italy had tried to snatch it up, but was unable to overthrow its monarchy. </span></p> <p><span>In fact, the country was never colonised and was one of the few independent states in Africa – until the Italians under Mussolini were able to briefly occupy it during the late 1930s. </span></p> <p><span>After World War II, Ethiopia became one of the founding countries of the United Nations. </span></p> <p><span>The country’s rich history also lays claim to the world’s oldest human fossil ever found, and allegedly the biblical Ark of the Covenant (you know, the one in <em>Raiders of the Lost Ark</em>). </span></p> <p><span>The surreal landscape of Ethiopia’s lava lake is one of the most remote places on earth.</span></p> <p><strong>Czechoslovakia</strong></p> <p><span>This eastern European country was another melding of different ethnic groups created in 1918 at the end of World War I. </span></p> <p><span>Part of the former Austro-Hungarian Empire, Czechoslovakia was made up of the historical regions Moravia, Slovakia and Bohemia (yes, as in ‘bohemian’). </span></p> <p><span>The Nazi occupation of the area helped propel Europe into World War II; after being liberated by the Soviet Union it became an Eastern Bloc nation in the later half of the 20th century. </span></p> <p><span>Czechoslovakia eventually peacefully split into the Czech Republic and Slovakia in 1993.</span></p> <p><strong>Ceylon</strong></p> <p><span>You probably know of this large island south of India as Sri Lanka, but until 1972 it was called Ceylon. </span></p> <p><span>That’s the name the Europeans gave to it when the island was colonised centuries earlier. Under British control until 1948, it then became an independent nation and threw off its colonial moniker in 1972, when it became Sri Lanka. </span></p> <p><span>After some civil war in the early 21st century, the area is now stable. In 2011, the country decided to change the title of any state institutions still bearing the name Ceylon in an effort to remove any vestiges of colonialism.</span></p> <p><strong>Basutoland</strong></p> <p><span>Now called Lesotho since its independence from Britain in 1966, Basutoland was united as a nation in the 19th century under King Moshoeshoe I, who later applied to the British for help in warding off invaders. </span></p> <p><span>Only one of three countries in the world to be surrounded completely by another (along with the Vatican and San Marino, both enclaves within Italy), Basutoland was located inside what is today South Africa.</span></p> <p><span> Lesotho still has a royal family and is now a constitutional monarchy. Prince Harry, who’s very fond of the country, founded his charity for children in Africa, Sentebale, with Lesotho’s Prince Seeiso.</span></p> <p><strong>Ottoman Empire</strong></p> <p><span>Unlike the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the Ottoman Empire, which still encompassed Turkey and some surrounding areas by 1920, survived World War I. </span></p> <p><span>But not for long – in 1923, after losing most of its other territories, it became the Turkish Republic. Prior to the Great War, though, the empire ruled for more than 600 years over lands that also included parts of eastern Europe, north Africa and the Middle East. </span></p> <p><span>Its influence is still seen today in the culture and architecture of Turkey. For an up-close look, visit Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar, which has been wowing shoppers since 1455.</span></p> <p><strong>Sikkim</strong></p> <p><span>Have you heard of this tiny mountain region in the Himalayas? Sikkim was a sovereign monarchy from 1642 until it became an Indian protectorate in 1950, and then a state of India in 1975. </span></p> <p><span>Also bordering Bhutan, Tibet Autonomous Region of China, and Nepal today, Sikkim is dominated by snow-covered mountains, which the people revere as both a god itself and the home of gods. </span></p> <p><span>A footprint of the Yeti, aka the Abominable Snowman, was allegedly found in Sikkim in 1948.</span></p> <p><strong>Persia</strong></p> <p><span>The name of Persia conjures up an ancient Middle Eastern kingdom, one of the oldest civilisations in history. </span></p> <p><span>Since the height of its power in ancient times, the country was oft fought over but still retained its old moniker all the way until 1935, when it officially became Iran. </span></p> <p><span>Today, we mostly think of Persia when speaking of Persian rugs and Persian cats, but its culture is alive and well – unfortunately, continuing unstable international relations (not to mention a certain global pandemic) are keeping Westerners from visiting.</span></p> <p><strong>Siam</strong></p> <p><span>Anyone who’s seen the musical <em>The King and I</em> might wonder where on earth the king of Siam (the real-life King Mongkut, who ruled from 1851 to 1868) actually lived. </span></p> <p><span>The answer? Present-day Thailand, whose new name was adopted in 1939. </span></p> <p><span>Never colonised by Europeans, Siam was an absolute monarchy; after unrest in the 20th century, Thailand is now a constitutional monarchy. </span></p> <p><span>Thanks to its hundreds of islands, clear water and gorgeous coastlines, Thailand is a popular tourist destination today.</span></p> <p><strong>Prussia</strong></p> <p><span>You read right: not Russia, Prussia. </span></p> <p><span>This country, which encompassed land in central and eastern Europe including present-day Germany and Poland, existed in some form all the way until 1947. </span></p> <p><span>The kingdom of Prussia enjoyed much success in the 18th century but started to lose territory in the 19th, until the unification of the German empire placed the Prussian king at its head in 1871. </span></p> <p><span>Although it’s a little complicated where Prussia ends and Germany begins, the defeat of the empire and the abolishment of the Prussian monarchy after World War I extinguished its influence. </span></p> <p><span>But Prussia continued to exist as a German state until the land was divided up and the name formally dismissed after World War II, erasing it from the map forever. </span></p> <p><span>Interestingly, though, the descendants of the defunct monarchy continue to carry their titles – Prince Georg Friedrich Ferdinand of Prussia is the current head of the former ruling family.</span></p> <p><strong>Zanzibar</strong></p> <p><span>The islands of Zanzibar, an archipelago off Africa’s east coast, sound exotically alluring – the name probably makes you think of spices, explorers and adventure. </span></p> <p><span>And for good reason: the area was once an important trading locale, and was established as an independent sultanate in the 19th century. </span></p> <p><span>Although it became a British protectorate soon after, the sultan continued to rule until 1964. Having gained full independence the previous year, Zanzibar then merged with mainland Tanganyika to form present-day Tanzania. </span></p> <p><span>Today, see the highest point in Africa, Mount Kilimanjaro, before heading for the tropical paradise of the islands’ beaches.</span></p> <p><strong>Sarawak</strong></p> <p><span>Now a state in Malaysia on the island of Borneo, Sarawak is a land full of natural beauty. </span></p> <p><span>Created as a kingdom by the adventurer James Brooke in the 1840s, Sarawak was ruled by his descendants until World War II, when it was occupied by Japan and later ceded to Britain. </span></p> <p><span>In 1963, Sarawak became part of the new country of Malaysia. Interestingly, although Brooke was English, he resisted British imperialism and is largely regarded positively in the country. </span></p> <p><span>Rudyard Kipling’s <em>The Man Who Would Be King</em> was likely based on Brooke, and he’s also the inspiration for the planned upcoming film <em>White Rajah</em>. </span></p> <p><span>The Brooke family is still active in Sarawak through The Brooke Trust.</span></p> <p><em>Image credits: Getty Images</em></p> <p><em>This article originally appeared in <a rel="noopener" href="https://www.readersdigest.com.au/culture/15-countries-that-existed-100-years-ago-but-dont-anymore?pages=1" target="_blank">Reader's Digest</a>.</em></p>

Travel Tips

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Prince Harry will not be allowed to wear his military uniform at armed forces gala

<p dir="ltr">Prince Harry will not wear his military uniform when he appears at the Salute to Freedom gala on Wednesday, despite serving in the military for 10 years.</p> <p dir="ltr">The Duke of Sussex, whose service included two tours in Afghanistan in 2008 and 2012, is set to appear at the gala in New York to award five war heroes with medals. However, he will not be allowed to wear his military uniform, because he has been stripped of his honorary titles.</p> <p dir="ltr">Harry lost his titles after he and wife Meghan Markle resigned as senior royals in March 2020. It is understood that Harry wanted to retain his honorary positions, including the title of Captain General of the Royal Marines, but was not able to do so. It is thought that Princess Anne will be the next royal to hold that title, making her the first woman to do so.</p> <p dir="ltr">The 37-year-old second son of Princess Diana was appointed to the position of Captain General of the Royal Marines in 2017. Prior to his appointment, the position had been held by his grandfather, Prince Phiilip, for 64 years.</p> <p dir="ltr">As a result of losing his titles, Harry will wear plain clothes when he presents awards at the gala, which is to be held aboard a warship in New York on Wednesday November 10. Despite this, he will be allowed to pin his four medals to his suit for the occasion.</p> <p dir="ltr">The Salute to Freedom gala is being held to honour "those who have served in the US forces, defending America." Award recipients are those who have "demonstrated courage and perseverance in the face of great danger or personal struggle."</p> <p dir="ltr">The event will be held at the Intrepid Sea, Air &amp; Space Museum, and other attendees include Jon Bon Jovi, who will be receiving the 2021 Intrepid Lifetime Achievement Award for his work with the Jon Bon Jovi Soul Foundation. The Foundation works to break the cycle of poverty and homelessness through affordable shelter and housing, including providing permanent supportive housing for veterans.</p> <p dir="ltr">Bon Jovi and Harry have crossed paths before, when Bon Jovi recorded ‘Unbroken’ as a single for Harry’s Invictus Games Foundation last year.</p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Image: Geoff Pugh - WPA Pool/Getty Images</em></p>

News

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Apple’s iPod came out two decades ago and changed how we listen to music. Where are we headed now?

<p>On October 23, 2001, Apple released the iPod — a portable media player that promised to overshadow the clunky design and low storage capacity of MP3 players introduced in the mid-1990s.</p> <p>The iPod boasted the ability to “hold 1,000 songs in your pocket”. Its personalised listening format revolutionised the way we consume music. And with more than 400 million units <a href="https://www.businessinsider.com.au/rise-and-fall-apple-ipod-2020-1?r=US&amp;IR=T">sold since its release</a>, there’s no doubt it was a success.</p> <p>Yet, two decades later, the digital music landscape continues to rapidly evolve.</p> <h2>A market success</h2> <p>The iPod expanded listening beyond the constraints of the home stereo system, allowing the user to plug into not only their headphones, but also their car radio, their computer at work, or their hi-fi system at home.</p> <p>It made it easier to entwine these disparate spaces into a single personalised soundtrack throughout the day.</p> <p><span>There were several preconditions that led to the iPod’s success. For one, it contributed to the end of an era in which people listened to relatively fixed music collections, such as mixtapes, or albums in their running order. </span></p> <p><span>The iPod (and MP3 players more generally) normalised having random collections of individual tracks.</span></p> <p>Then during the 1990s, an MP3 encoding algorithm <a href="https://books.google.com.au/books?hl=en&amp;lr=&amp;id=pGhIDQAAQBAJ&amp;oi=fnd&amp;pg=PA445&amp;dq=mp3+fraunhofer&amp;ots=AMSYOhB5UQ&amp;sig=CrnewI4eSiOiWQgMiuiTO8NFRYs&amp;redir_esc=y#v=onepage&amp;q=mp3%20fraunhofer&amp;f=false">developed</a> at the Fraunhofer Institute in Germany allowed unprecedented audio data compression ratios. In simple terms, this made music files much smaller than before, hugely increasing the quantity of music that could be stored on a device.</p> <p>Then came peer-to-peer file-sharing services <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/music/2019/may/31/napster-twenty-years-music-revolution">such as Napster</a>, Limewire and BitTorrent, released in 1999, 2000 and 2001, respectively. These furthered the democratisation of the internet for the end user (with Napster <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/music/2019/may/31/napster-twenty-years-music-revolution">garnering 80 million users</a> in three years). The result was a fast-changing digital landscape where music piracy ran rife.</p> <p>The accessibility of music significantly changed the relationship between listener and musician. In 2003, Apple responded to the music piracy crisis by launching its iTunes store, creating an <a href="https://digitalguardian.com/blog/what-digital-rights-management">attractive model</a> for copyright-protected content.</p> <p>Meanwhile, the iPod continued to sell, year after year. It was designed to do one thing, and did it well. But this would change around 2007 with the release of the touchscreen <a href="https://www.computerworld.com/article/2604020/the-evolution-of-apples-iphone.html">iPhone</a> and <a href="https://www.androidauthority.com/history-android-os-name-789433/">Android</a> smartphones.</p> <h2>Computer in your pocket</h2> <p>The rise of touchscreen smartphones ultimately led to the iPod’s downfall. Interestingly, the music app on the original iPhone was called “iPod”.</p> <p>The iPod’s functions were essentially reappropriated and absorbed into the iPhone. The iPhone was a flexible and multifunctional device: an iPod, a phone and an internet communicator all in one — a <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/technology/2017/jun/29/my-electronic-swiss-army-knife-readers-on-10-years-of-the-iphone">computer in your pocket</a>.</p> <p>And by making the development tools for their products freely available, Apple and Google allowed third-party developers to create apps for their new platforms in the thousands.</p> <p>It was a game-changer for the mobile industry. And the future line of tablets, such as Apple’s iPad released in 2010, continued this trend. In 2011, iPhone sales <a href="https://www.macstories.net/news/apple-q4-2011-results-28-27-billion-revenue-17-07-million-iphones-11-12-million-ipads-4-89-million-macs-sold/">overtook the iPod</a>, and in 2014 the iPod Classic was <a href="https://www.engadget.com/2019-09-14-this-week-in-tech-history-apple-ipod-classic-discontinued.html">discontinued</a>.</p> <p>Unlike the Apple Watch, which serves as a companion to smartphones, single-purpose devices such as the iPod Classic are now seen as antiquated and obsolete.</p> <h2>Music streaming and the role of the web</h2> <p>As of this year, mobile devices are responsible for <a href="https://www.statista.com/statistics/277125/share-of-website-traffic-coming-from-mobile-devices/">54.8% of web traffic worldwide</a>. And while music piracy still exists, its influence has been significantly reduced by the arrival of streaming services such as Spotify and YouTube.</p> <p>These platforms have had a profound effect on how we engage with music as active and passive listeners. Spotify supports an online community-based approach to music sharing, with curated playlists.</p> <p>Based on our listening habits, it uses our activity data and a range of machine-learning <a href="https://dl.acm.org/doi/abs/10.1145/2959100.2959120">techniques</a> to generate automatic recommendations for us. Both Spotify and YouTube have also embraced <a href="https://www.theverge.com/2017/6/19/15833880/spotify-sponsored-songs-playlists-test">sponsored content</a>, which boosts the visibility of certain labels and artists.</p> <p>And while we may want to bypass popular music recommendations — especially to support new generations of musicians who lack visibility — the reality is we’re faced with a quantity of music we can’t possibly contend with. As of February this year, more than 60,000 tracks were <a href="https://www.musicbusinessworldwide.com/over-60000-tracks-are-now-uploaded-to-spotify-daily-thats-nearly-one-per-second/">being uploaded</a> to Spotify each day.</p> <h2>What’s next?</h2> <p>The experience of listening to music will become increasingly immersive with time, and we’ll only find more ways to seamlessly integrate it into our lives. Some signs of this include:</p> <ul> <li> <p>Gen Z’s growing obsession with platforms such as TikTok, which is a huge promotional tool for artists lucky enough to have their track attached to a viral trend</p> </li> <li> <p>new interactive tools for music exploration, such as <a href="http://radio.garden/visit/perth/cKenL5sw">Radio Garden</a> (which lets you tune into radio stations from across the globe), the <a href="https://eternalbox.dev/jukebox_index.html">Eternal Jukebox for Spotify</a> and <a href="https://github.com/ShunSawada/Music-information-processing/issues/28which">Instrudive</a></p> </li> <li> <p>the use of wearables, such as <a href="https://www.bose.com.au/en_au/products/frames.html">Bose’s audio sunglasses</a> and bone-conduction headphones, which allow you to listen to music while interacting with the world rather than being closed off, and</p> </li> <li> <p>the surge in <a href="https://www.forbes.com/sites/legalentertainment/2021/02/09/the-future-of-live-events-ar-vr-and-advertising/?sh=412c20c42b65">virtual music performances</a> during the COVID pandemic, which suggests virtual reality, augmented reality and mixed reality will become increasingly accepted as spaces for experiencing music performances.</p> </li> </ul> <p>The industry is also increasingly adopting immersive audio. Apple has incorporated Dolby Atmos 3D spatial audio into both its Logic Pro music production software and music on the iTunes store. With spatial audio capabilities, the listener can experience surround sound with the convenience of portable headphones.</p> <p>As for algorithms, we can assume more sophisticated machine learning will emerge. In the future, it may recommend music based on our feelings. For example, <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1071581918301654">MoodPlay</a> is a music recommendation system that lets users explore music through mood-based filtering.</p> <p>Some advanced listening devices even adapt to our physiology. The Australian-designed <a href="https://www.nuraphone.com/">Nura headphones</a> can pick up information about how a specific listener’s ears respond to different sound frequencies. They purport to automatically adjust the sound to perfectly suit that listener.</p> <p>Such technologies are taking “personalised listening” to a whole new level, and advances in this space are set to continue. If the digital music landscape has changed so rapidly within the past 20 years, we can only assume it will continue to change over the next two decades, too.</p> <p><em>Image credits: Shutterstock</em></p> <p><em>This article first appeared on <a rel="noopener" href="https://theconversation.com/apples-ipod-came-out-two-decades-ago-and-changed-how-we-listen-to-music-where-are-we-headed-now-169272" target="_blank">The Conversation</a>.</em></p>

Music

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Stars make bold choices at the 2021 Met Gala

<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">After spending 2020 on hiatus due to the pandemic, the annual Met Gala is back for the 2021 event. </span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Stars from all over the world gathered at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City to celebrate the biggest moments in fashion. </span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">This year, the theme was “In America: A Lexicon of Fashion”, which gave guests an opportunity to pay homage to the rich history of American designers. </span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The first celebrity on the carpet was international teenage superstar and Met Gala 2021 co-chair Billie Eilish, who stunned in an Oscar de la Renta gown that was inspired by fashion icon Marilyn Monroe. </span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Billie took to her Instagram account to tell her fans that she agreed to wear the gown on the condition that the world-renowned designer would no longer use real fur. </span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Other stars also used the high profile event to make political statements in their outfits. </span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The two New York congresswomen in attendance, Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez and Carolyn B Maloney, made bold statements in their gowns, with AOC’s dress reading “Tax The Rich” on the back. </span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Carolyn B Maloney’s gown was an homage to the suffragette movement, with her dress resembling the “Votes for Women” sashes worn by women in the 1910s.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Other celebs used the opportunity to stun in extravagant pieces that stood out amongst all the attendees. </span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">International supermodel Iman wore an elaborate gold embellished outfit that was adorned with feathers and a show-stopping headdress that was designed by her date, revolutionary designer Harris Reed. </span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Debbie Harry stuck to the theme with a ballgown shrouded in the American flag and partnered with a bedazzled denim jacket. </span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The star-studded event showcased some of the most inventive and daring outfits to honour the American fashion industry. </span></p> <p><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">All image credits: Getty Images</span></em></p>

Beauty & Style

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Man who lost his wife two weeks ago barred from visiting grave

<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">A Sydney man has faced further grief after being stopped from visiting his wife’s grave due to COVID-19 restrictions.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">After Andy Gusmardy lost his wife two weeks ago, he has been visiting her grave everyday since as he mourns her death.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">But, when he arrived at Rookwood Cemetery on Thursday, he was told the site was off-limits to everyone save staff and those attending funerals.</span></p> <p><img style="width: 500px; height:281.53846153846155px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7843100/f3fc2487012e07392a9bd3d7719efb71c682d901-16x9-x0y0w1420h799.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/eb87e534ff5d467aa5123be5611cd955" /></p> <p><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">Image: 7NEWS</span></em></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">“To be told, ‘sorry mate, Rookwood’s closed’ … where’s my process of grieving?” he told </span><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">7NEWS</span></em><span style="font-weight: 400;"> as he fought back tears.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">“I’m just so frustrated, angry.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">“How can you get over losing your loved one?”</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">In a statement, the cemetery admitted that some funerals have exceeded the 10-person attendance limit, prompting the decision to close the site to everyone except funeral attendees and staff “in accordance with advice from NSW police”.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">“NSW Police have also advised that visiting the grave of a loved one in the cemetery is not considered a reasonable excuse to leave home,” Rookwood Cemetery said in the statement.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">“Rookwood Cemetery operators are working closely with their Funeral Directors and key faith groups, such as the Lebanese Muslim Association, the Greek Orthodox Archdiocese and the Sydney Chevra Kadisha, to implement these new processes in a way that maintains safety and minimises impacts to internment services at Rookwood.”</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Security guards are now stationed at the cemetery’s entrances and police are known to patrol the area.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">“We appreciate the wider community’s continued assistance and support as we navigate this challenging time together,” cemetery administrator Lee Shearer said.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Though Gusmardy understands the need to restrict funeral attendees, he said it’s “crazy” for mourners to be turned away when visiting their loved ones.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">“You’re going there, by yourself, to grieve,” he said.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The cemetery will review the current measures in four weeks.</span></p> <p><em><span style="font-weight: 400;">Image: 7NEWS</span></em></p>

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