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How to build timber covers for wheelie bins

<p>The Sekit flat-packed system, from Bunnings (bunnings.com.au), uses ACQ treated pine and takes an hour to assemble, fitting 120 and 240 litre bins.</p> <p>A single bin cover measures 670 x 810 x 1200mm, and the double is 1340 x 810 x 1200mm.</p> <div id="firstFloatAd"> <div data-fuse="21928626849"> </div> <div data-fuse="21699960946"> </div> </div> <p>Simple latch bolts keep the doors secured and a chain joins the bin handles to the covers so both lids are raised simultaneously, making rubbish disposal much more hygienic.</p> <p>TIP – To remove the bins on collection day, unhook the lid chains before opening the doors.A chain connects the bin</p> <p>ASSEMBLE THE FRAME positioning the dividing frame against the side panels and adding the front and back supports, securing with the supplied screws. Square up the frame and secure the two diagonal back supports.</p> <div id="lastFloatAd"> <div data-fuse="21928512968"> </div> <div data-fuse="22652288252"> </div> </div> <p>INSTALL THE LIDS by aligning the holes on the lid with the holes in the frame then insert the supplied bolts, securing the outside bolts with the washer and nut and the inside bolts using a Phillips head screwdriver.</p> <p>ATTACH THE DOORS by aligning the top hinge and securing with a screw at the top, attach the base hinge, checking the door is parallel with the side then secure the second screw at the top and attach the latch bolts.</p> <p><em>Image: Bunnings</em></p>

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Award-winning timber house does away with plasterboard

<p>Situated along the Omaha River just north of Auckland, with corrugated iron roofing and cedar weatherboards the three barn-like volumes of this new house look right at home in the rural landscape. </p> <p>And that's the intention, says architect Aaron Paterson, of Paterson Architecture Collective (P-A-C).</p> <p>But designing and constructing the home, which was the winner in two categories at the Resene Timber Design Awards 2017, was a step outside his usual comfort zone and an introduction to an entirely different material world.</p> <p>"The homeowner was quite specific that they didn't want any plasterboard," says Aaron Paterson. "So it's really a vernacular style, and very much inspired by rural, farmhouse-type forms… which was quite a different style for me."</p> <p>Paterson embraced the opportunity to learn more about traditional construction techniques, and the use of timber as the primary material not only on the exterior, but throughout the interior as well.</p> <p>"As the project went on, I continued to do research on timber and timber construction, and I became absolutely fascinated. I usually work in a very modernist style - with the construction techniques and material palette that typically accompanies that - so on a certain level I was entering a new world with this project."</p> <p>Paterson credits the on-going relationship between P-A-C and builders Lindesay Construction for the project's success.</p> <p>"They're so knowledgeable about high-end timber construction, so their expertise and skill enabled the design to be realised - and I learned so much from them throughout the process."</p> <p>From a distance, the house blends clean-lined modernism with the functionality of rural out-buildings. The main house is comprised of two pavilions, aligned to true north, with an east-west boardwalk between them. A third pavilion - containing the garage and guest accommodation above - is positioned at one end. </p> <p>"It's a very contemporary plan; it's set out on a grid and very systematic, which allowed us to complete the build in just 11 months," says Paterson. "And because we kept that aspect of the design quite simple, we were able to spend time on the detailing and make the beauty of the timber and the hand-crafted joinery and hardware a real feature, both inside and out."</p> <p>The cedar weatherboards begin as a narrow board and gradually expand as they go up, until they've doubled in width at the gable apex. New Zealand beech is mitred and spliced to form a seamless tongue-and-groove lining throughout the interior. </p> <p>The home's structural components - the transom beams and truss frames - are joined by exposed galvanised bolts, giving the interior an industrial edge. These framing elements are made from Tonka heartwood, a South American timber which has reddish-brown or purplish-brown with lighter streaks when first cut, and on exposure gradually becomes uniform light brown.</p> <p>"The timber interior is dark and rich - it's very moody, which is quite different to the white-walled modernist interiors that I'm typically designing," says Paterson. "It really warm and embracing."</p> <p>Skylights and full-height windows and doors bring in plenty of light and, when opened, blur the lines between the home and the surrounding landscape.</p> <p>The home was designed by Paterson Architecture Collective, Steven Lloyd Architecture &amp; Glamuzina Architects.</p> <p><em>Written by Kathleen Kinney. First appeared on <a href="http://www.stuff.co.nz/" target="_blank"><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Stuff.co.nz.</span></strong></a> Image credit: David Straight via Stuff.co.nz. </em></p>

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How to revive timber furniture

<p>Most timber pieces can be made over quickly and easily with a couple of coats of paint. Generally, this is a simple, three-step process that only takes an afternoon or two. Set yourself up in a nice spot in the garden, with a drop sheet and all your painting equipment (and perhaps a little Vivaldi playing in the background to make it even more enjoyable).</p> <p>For most furniture projects, a satin finish works well as it gives a mid-level gloss – hardier than a matte finish but more forgiving of fingerprints than high-gloss.</p> <p><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">What you will need:</span></strong></p> <ul> <li>Warm damp cloth</li> <li>Sandpaper</li> <li>Acrylic paint in satin</li> </ul> <p><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">What to do:</span></strong></p> <p>1. Clean your furniture thoroughly with a warm, damp cloth. Allow to dry.</p> <p>2. Sand back until smooth and then wipe away any dust.</p> <p>3. Apply two coats of paint. Allow for plenty of drying time between coats.</p> <p><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Extra painting tips:</span></strong></p> <ul> <li>Remove any hardware such as handles and hinges if you don’t want paint on them (we didn’t worry with this project as the hardware had already been painted over previously) and protect any fixed fittings with masking tape.</li> <li>In these projects, we’ve sanded rather than stripped furniture. This is because I don’t like the heavy chemicals used in most commercial paint strippers.  For most pieces, sanding is easier and less messy. However, if you have an old piece with intricate mouldings, it is better to use a stripper as you may wear away the detail if you sand too vigorously.</li> <li>Use the right size brush. Small brushes for small pieces, large for large.</li> <li>The glossier the finish, the hardier it will be. A satin finish will suit most items but high gloss will be more suitable for hard working items such as kitchen tables. Matte finishes are best for more decorative pieces.</li> </ul> <p><em>This is an edited extract from Luxe Vintage by Tahn Scoon published by New Holland Publishers.</em></p>

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