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How whiteness was invented and fashioned in Britain’s colonial age of expansion

<p>Fashion <a href="https://www.routledge.com/The-Force-of-Fashion-in-Politics-and-Society-Global-Perspectives-from-Early/Lemire/p/book/9781138274228">is political — today as in the past</a>. As Britain’s Empire dramatically expanded, people of all ranks lived with clothing and everyday objects in startlingly different ways than generations before. </p> <p>The years between 1660 and 1820 saw the expansion of the British empire and commercial capitalism. The <a href="https://www.bloomsbury.com/ca/cotton-9781845202996">social politics of Britain’s cotton trade</a> mirrored profound global transformations bound up with technological and industrial revolutions, social modernization, colonialism and slavery. </p> <p>As history educators and researchers Abdul Mohamud and Robin Whitburn note, the British “<a href="https://www.bl.uk/restoration-18th-century-literature/articles/britains-involvement-with-new-world-slavery-and-the-transatlantic-slave-trade">monarchy started the large-scale involvement of the English in the slave trade</a>” after 1660.</p> <p>Vast <a href="https://www.routledge.com/The-British-Cotton-Trade-1660-1815-Vol-2/Lemire/p/book/9781138757943">profits poured in from areas of plantation slavery</a>, particularly from the Caribbean. The mass enslavement of Africans was at the heart of this brutal system, with laws and policing enforcing Black subjugation <a href="https://schoolshistory.org.uk/topics/british-empire/economic-consequences-of-empire/slave-resistance/">in the face of repeated resistance from enslaved</a> people.</p> <p>Western fashion reflected the racialized politics that infused this period. Indian cottons and European linens <a href="https://www.cambridge.org/core/books/global-trade-and-the-transformation-of-consumer-cultures/A7517EB8FB5003114662BA428501AB79">were now traded in ever-rising volumes</a>, feeding the vogue for lighter and potentially whiter textiles, ever more in demand. </p> <p>My scholarship explores dimensions of whiteness through material histories — how whiteness was fashioned in labour structures, routines, esthetics and everyday practices.</p> <h2>Whiteness on many scales</h2> <p>Enslaved men and women were never given white clothes, unless as part of livery (servants’ uniforms, which were sometimes very luxurious). Wearing white textiles became a marker of status in urban centres, in colonizing nations and in colonies. Textile whiteness was a transient state demanding constant renewal, shaping ecologies of style. The resulting Black/white dichotomy hardened as profits from enslavement soared, with a striking impact on culture.</p> <p>Whiteness in clothing, decor and fashion was amplified, becoming a marker of status. Elaborate washing techniques were used to achieve material goals. </p> <p>British sociologist Vron Ware emphasizes “<a href="https://doi.org/10.1215/9780822381044-009">the importance of thinking about whiteness on many different scales</a>,” including “as an interconnected global system, having different inflections and implications depending on where and when it has been produced.” Accordingly, fabrics, laundry and fashion were entangled in imperial aims. </p> <h2>Pristine whiteness in garments</h2> <p>Laundering was codified in household manuals from the late 1660s, a chore overseen by housewives and housekeepers. Women with fewer options sweated over washtubs, engaged in ubiquitous labour with the aim of pristine whiteness. </p> <p>In colonial and plantation regions, where lightweight fabrics were key, Black enslaved women were tasked with this never-ending drudgery. Only a few profited personally from their fashioning skills.</p> <p>This workforce was vast. Yet few museums have invited visitors to consider the processes of soaking, bleaching, washing, blueing, starching and ironing required by historic garments. </p> <p>A recent exhibit at <a href="https://agnes.queensu.ca/connect/about-agnes/#about-agnes">Agnes Etherington Art Centre</a> at Queen’s University <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5bDY3oy0tbA">curated by Jason Cyrus, a researcher who analyzes fashion and textile history</a>, examined <a href="https://agnes.queensu.ca/digital-agnes/video/black-bodies-white-gold-unpacking-slavery-and-north-american-cotton-production">slavery and North American cotton production</a>.</p> <h2>Laundry labour of enslaved women</h2> <p>The skilled labour of enslaved women was a core component of every plantation and an essential colonial urban trade, given the resident population and many thousands of seafarers and sojourners arriving annually in the Caribbean — all wanting clothes refreshed. </p> <p>Ports throughout the Atlantic were stocked with wash tubs and women labouring over them. Orderly material whiteness was the aim. Mary Prince recorded her thoughts about a demanding mistress in Antigua, who gave the enslaved Prince weekly “<a href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/10.5149/9781469633299_prince">two bundles of clothes, as much as a boy could help me lift; but I could give no satisfaction</a>.”</p> <p>Prince only earned money laundering for ships’ captains during her “owners’” absence. Within port cities, including the Caribbean and imperial centres, this trade allowed some enslaved women mobility and sometimes self-emancipation. But fashioning whiteness was a fraught process, with many historical threads.</p> <h2>Colour scrubbed from recovered statues</h2> <p>From the 1750s, European fashion and artistic style was increasingly inspired by perceptions of the classical past. Countless portraits were painted of wealthy people as Greek gods, the classical past becoming, as cultural theorist Stuart Hall observed, a “myth reservoir.” These became sources <a href="https://doi.org/10.1515/9781478021223-023">for imagining Europe’s origins</a> and destiny.</p> <p>European scholars and the educated public viewed this cultural lineage as white. <a href="https://www.rom.on.ca/en/exhibitions-galleries/exhibitions/kore-670">Remnants of polychrome colouring was scrubbed</a> from recovered <a href="https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/see-the-vibrant-long-overlooked-colors-of-classical-sculptures-180980321/">Greek sculptures</a>.</p> <p>This supposed heritage of a white classical past defined <a href="https://mymodernmet.com/what-is-neoclassicism/">what became known as neoclassical</a> styles further expanding the craze for light, white gowns, a political fashion needing endless care. </p> <p>In this era, “the term classical was not neutral,” as art historian Charmaine Nelson explains, “<a href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/42631206">but a racialized term</a> …” Nelson states that the category “classical” also defined the marginalization of Blackness as its antithesis.</p> <p>Today, some scholars are wrestling <a href="https://www.famsf.org/about/publications/gods-color-polychromy-ancient-world">with the legacy of racism built into classical studies</a>.</p> <h2>Racialized masquerade</h2> <p>Neoclassical gowns reflected this zeitgeist, as ladies disported themselves as Greek goddesses. Ladies’ magazines urged readers to play-act as deities. Simple socializing en vogue would not suffice. Fashion required a wider stage. </p> <p>Masquerade balls became the venue where whiteness and empire aligned, as goddesses robed in white mingled with guests in blackface or regalia appropriated from colonized peoples. </p> <p>Masquerades became staple occasions, revels led by royals, nobles and those enriched through trade and slave labour.</p> <h2>Race hierarchies enforced</h2> <p>Seemingly banal routines (and stylish affairs) reveal cultural facets of empire where race hierarchies were reinforced. In this era, everyday dress and celebratory fashions demanded relentless attention. </p> <p>These routines were enmeshed with empire and race, whether in the colonial Caribbean or a London grand masquerade. </p> <p>The proliferation of white linens and cottons were purposefully employed to enforce hierarchies. The rise of white clothing and neoclassical style can be better understood by addressing mass enslavement as an economic, political and cultural force shaping styles, determining vogues and promoting the fashions of whiteness.</p> <p><em>Image credits: Getty Images</em></p> <p><em>This article originally appeared on <a href="https://theconversation.com/how-whiteness-was-invented-and-fashioned-in-britains-colonial-age-of-expansion-175027" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a>. </em></p>

Art

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What Amazon means for Aussie shoppers

<p>The expansion of US online giant Amazon in Australia will most likely be a game-changer in the retail landscape, transforming the way we shop and threatening the supremacy of established local retailers.</p> <p>"We are going to destroy the retail environment in Australia," an Amazon executive behind the Australian roll-out told Justin Braitling, the chief investment officer at Watermark Funds Management, late last year.</p> <p>Australians, of course, can already buy a limited range of items from Amazon.com.au. Presently these are mostly limited to entertainment, including Kindle e-books, audiobooks, e-readers, and some items on the streaming site Amazon Prime Video.</p> <p>So what will be available when Amazon rolls out its full suite of retail services into the Australian market? Perhaps an easier question is: what won't be available?</p> <p>The US Amazon site offers almost everything, such as groceries, beauty products, wine, clothing and fashion, furniture, musical instruments, pet supplies, appliances, and power and hand tools. Type any search item into Amazon's US site, and odds are it will be there, and at a heavily discounted price.</p> <p>Before launching its operation in Australia, it's understood Amazon will go through and collect price-points on everything, before setting prices at a 30 per cent discount.</p> <p>The roll-out here is expected to be gradual, with an initial focus on consumer and home electronics, including non-perishables, such as canned food and other household necessities.</p> <p>But the US provides a glimpse of what the future could look like in Australia.</p> <p>Customers in the US who sign up to Amazon Prime, for an annual cost of $US99, receive free, two-day shipping on items; unlimited access to Amazon Prime Video, similar to Netflix, with a library of movies and television shows; unlimited access to Prime Music, a music streaming service; the ability to borrow books from a Kindle lending library; and access to a restaurant meal delivery service in major cities.</p> <p>Amazon Prime members can also access Prime Now, offering free delivery within two hours in certain locations.</p> <p>For an extra $US14.99 a month for an Amazon Fresh membership, a customer can order their groceries or other items from supermarkets and shops in major areas and have them delivered within hours.</p> <p>About 60 million US households have signed up for Amazon Prime.</p> <p>Amazon has $US1 of every $US2 of e-commerce sales in the US and its market share is growing 20 years after it was founded by Jeff Bezos.</p> <p><strong>How it works now in Australia</strong></p> <p>Determined Australian bargain-hunters can already buy items from the US Amazon store that aren't available locally, but it can be a time-consuming and more expensive process.</p> <p>Amazon will often refuse an Australian billing address or credit card when an attempt is made to buy from the US site, but third-party forwarding businesses have popped up to fill this void.</p> <p>Shoppers can sign up to these businesses, which provide an intermediary US address, from which the item will be forwarded to Australia. To skirt around the billing problems, Australian shoppers pay the intermediary business, which then pays Amazon on the shopper's behalf.</p> <p>Essentially, Amazon's further expansion into Australia will eliminate this prolonged process. Local warehousing will dramatically slash delivery times, shaking things up for established retailers.</p> <p>Amazon already does A$1 billion in sales in Australia by shipping from overseas, according to analysis by Morgan Stanley.</p> <p><strong>How will the new process work?</strong></p> <p>Amazon has confirmed it is actively looking for a warehouse, the first of many in Australia, with floor space of up to 93,000 square metres, or about five MCGs.</p> <p>A decision hasn't been made on a location but it is likely to be in Brisbane, Sydney or Melbourne.</p> <p>The news was confirmed with a brief written statement from the company overnight.</p> <p>"Amazon Web Services launched an Australian region in 2012, we launched a Kindle store on amazon.com.au in 2013 and we now have almost 1000 employees in the country," Amazon said.</p> <p>"The next step is to bring a retail offering to Australia, and we are making those plans now.</p> <p>"We are excited to bring thousands of new jobs to Australia, millions of dollars in additional investment, and to empower small Australian businesses through Amazon Marketplace.</p> <p>"We are optimistic that by focusing on the things we believe customers value most - low prices, vast selection, and fast delivery - over time we'll earn the business of Australian customers."</p> <p>There has been previous speculation that Amazon would start rolling out its services in September.</p> <p>Amazon Marketplace, whereby small players can sell their wares on Amazon, will also be a focus in Australia. Some Australian businesses are already using this via the US to gain access to international markets.</p> <p><strong>Damage to local retailers</strong></p> <p>Late last year, Braitling warned of the impending damage to the profit margins of local retailers from the arrival of Amazon in Australia.</p> <p>"They [Amazon] will be dropping distribution centres and performance centres in every state next year," Braitling told The Australian Financial Review.</p> <p>"They will be doing general merchandise and they will be doing fresh as well.</p> <p>"They will also be putting physical stores on the ground which I don't think anyone knows about.</p> <p>"These will mainly be in regional areas because fulfilment is a lot harder in regional areas than in the cities.</p> <p>"We spoke to the guy rolling out Amazon's business here in Australia and in his words: 'We are going to destroy the retail environment in Australia.' "</p> <p>The fund manager has been told that Amazon sees enormous potential in Australia because it believes prices are way too high.</p> <p>Amazon's motto in relation to Australia is along the following lines: "Your margin is our opportunity."</p> <p>Are you wary about Amazon’s expansion in Australia?</p> <p><em>Written by Megan Levy. First appeared on <a href="http://www.stuff.co.nz/" target="_blank"><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Stuff.co.nz.</span></strong></a></em></p>

Technology

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Singapore’s Changi Airport set for huge expansion

<p>One of the world’s biggest airports is about to get even bigger. Singapore’s iconic Changi Airport is currently undergoing several expansion projects that will eventually see the airport almost double in size.</p> <p>Over 55 million passengers passed through Changi Airport in 2015, which is already home to three large terminals. As part of the expansion:</p> <ul> <li>An additional terminal, Terminal 4 is set to open next year.</li> <li>The “Jewel Changi Airport” connector train will debut in 2018.</li> <li>A third runway will be completed by 2020.</li> <li>Terminal 5, a structure almost as big as all the previous terminals combined will be completed by “mid-2020”.</li> </ul> <p>Choy Da Wen, senior vice president of the project, told <em>Skift</em>, “We are excited about the myriad of possibilities… that this greenfield project brings us, and will definitely be looking at creative ways of how we can elevate the Changi experience further at this new terminal.”</p> <p><em>Image credit: Shutterstock / joyfull </em></p> <p><strong>Related links:</strong></p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><em><strong><a href="/travel/international-travel/2016/03/hippo-stuns-guests-by-swimming-in-pool/">Hippo stuns guests by taking a swim in the pool</a></strong></em></span></p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><em><strong><a href="/travel/international-travel/2016/03/fairytale-like-travel-experiences/">7 travel experiences straight out of a fairytale</a></strong></em></span></p> <p><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><em><strong><a href="/travel/international-travel/2016/03/farmer-plants-6000-trees-in-touching-tribute-to-late-wife/">70-year-old farmer plants 6,000 trees in tribute to late wife</a></strong></em></span></p>

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