The dress that caused a scandal before Princess Diana's wedding
The dress Diana wore in her first outing as a royal fiancée propelled her into the spotlight and saw the start of her image as a global fashion icon who was willing to break the rules and ignore royal protocol.
On March 9, 1981, Prince Charles and Lady Diana Spencer were making their public debut following the announcement of their engagement by Buckingham Palace.
As guests of honour at Goldsmiths Hall, in aid of The Royal Opera House, Diana wore a black low-cut strapless gown designed by David and Elizabeth Emmanuel, who would go on to design her wedding dress.
In a newsreel from the next day, a reporter said of Diana: “The palace did not know in advance of the dress she chose to wear … by normal royal standards, it was fairly revealing.”
Ken Gavin, former chief photographer for The Mirror, was stationed at the top of the stairs to snap the couple as they walked up towards the press pack.
“When she came out in that black dress, cleavage and everything [nearly] falling out everywhere, she was, she looked sensational,” Gavin said in the new documentary Diana’s Decades, which aired overnight.
“She came up the stairs and we were waiting for her. I knew that I had a page-one picture, there was no question about that.
“I think she would have known she was going to get a lot of attention [but] I don’t think she realised how low that dress was until she saw the stills the next day.
While most took issue with the cut of Diana’s dress, Prince Charles instead disapproved of its colour.
Princess Diana later told her biographer Andrew Morton how her fiance reacted when he first saw the gown, just as they were due to leave for the ball.
“I remember my first engagement so well,” Diana said. “So excited. I got this black dress from the Emmanuels and I thought it was OK because girls my age wore this dress.
“I hadn’t appreciated that I was now seen as a royal lady, although I’d only got a ring on my finger as opposed to two rings.
“I remember walking into my husband-to-be’s study, and him saying: ‘You’re not going in that dress, are you?’
“I replied: ‘Yes, I am.’ And he said: ‘It’s black! But only people in mourning wear black!’ And I said: ‘Yes, but I’m not part of your family yet.’
“Black, to me, was the smartest colour you could possibly have at the age of 19. It was a real grown-up dress. I was quite big-chested by then, and [the Press] all got frightfully excited.”
Diana also told Morton how Princess Grace of Monaco, who was also attending the ball, helped her cope with the newfound attention.
“I learned a lesson that night. I remember meeting Princess Grace and how wonderful and serene she was,” Diana said.
“‘Don’t worry,’ Princess Grace joked. ‘It will only get worse.’
“It was a horrendous occasion. I didn’t know whether to go out of the door first. I didn’t know whether your handbag should be in your left hand or your right hand.
“I was terrified, really - at the time everything was all over the place. I remember that evening so well. I was terrified - nearly sick.”